Just for S#ITS and Giggles...i hooked up an...

[christo4_99]

alternator to a drill motor...and hooked both to my car battery...started with 11.4 volts with the(drill motor) turning the alternator in about 3 minutes or so it was up to 12.2 volts and then there was hardly any drag on the alternator...what do you all think?does this basically prove overunity?what amperage does it take to charge a 700 amp 12v battery from 11.4 to 12.2 volts in 3 minutes...whatever that figure is and just a little less is the usables power of the setup.would a better d/c motor help,maybe a faster one or would a higher amperage alternator work better? would it run with just a big capacitor connecter between positive and negative?

[gyulasun]

Hi,

Very interesting. Would you share some more data on:

1) the alternator  (AC or DC,  its output power on its label)
2) the drill motor's input power on its label
3) if you drive the alternator by the drill motor without any load, what is the alternator unloaded output voltage?

Have you got any means to check the current in one of the wires going to a battery pole?

Could you test your battery with some normal load as to if is loadable normally like after a normal charging it up? I mean you could charge it up fully by this strange setup (perhaps include a series current limiting bulb to reduce the high current if any to normal charging current)  and compare the battery loadability to that of a normal charging.

I have seen some Belgian/German or French patents on the same setup you describe, referred to by member LancaIV here in this forum last year or so...
Sorry for the too many questions

Thanks,  Gyula

[christo4_99]

Hi,

Very interesting. Would you share some more data on:

1) the alternator  (AC or DC,  its output power on its label)
2) the drill motor's input power on its label
3) if you drive the alternator by the drill motor without any load, what is the alternator unloaded output voltage?

1)dc alternator rated at 70 amps 12-18 volts
2)it's a 19.2 volt craftsman drill motor(drill has a pwm in it but not using it)
3)i cannot read the alternator output seperately.the difference with the load and the voltage @ 12.6(unloaded) when i first started it was 11.4(loaded)...then it came up to 12.4(loaded)...............................
that's all the info i have at this time...perhaps if i had a way to control the voltage to the alternator i could find a "sweet spot" to compromise between load and charging

[pese]

switch also an light on (bulb) an see again waht happened.

Battery go :down or higher ??

this is the simplest test, without errors in reading instruments and meters
Pese


I hop the the bulb wil light you for more exeriments

[gyulasun]

...
that's all the info i have at this time...perhaps if i had a way to control the voltage to the alternator i could find a "sweet spot" to compromise between load and charging

Hi,

Many thanks for the infos.  Yes, on finding a "sweet" spot, you could use some headlight car bulb inserted in series with the alternator wire leading towards the battery. In fact a high power rheostat (spelling?) i.e. a high power variable wire potentiometer would serve you good here  but some high power bulbs (that has small DC resistance of a few Ohms only) are also good.

I agree with Pese's suggestion for placing 12V lightbulb(s) across the battery as indicator for voltage level on the battery  and also serve as useful load.

Thanks,  Gyula