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Overunity Machines Forum



Earth Electrical Energy Datalogging Experiments

Started by Pirate88179, July 14, 2009, 09:40:58 PM

Previous topic - Next topic

0 Members and 4 Guests are viewing this topic.

Pirate88179

Iota:

Here is one of the scope shots of my EER.  There are many high spikes that are not easily seen in this still shot.

Bill
See the Joule thief Circuit Diagrams, etc. topic here:
http://www.overunity.com/index.php?topic=6942.0;topicseen

electricme

@ Tishatang,

Hello there, and hope you survived the cold climate, it's now approaching our winter time but I have been preparing for it.

I have made up a oil heater out of 2 transformers from wall plugpaks, I found I could make the iron E cores heat up by soldering a single 1N4004 silicon diode in series with the primary coil, unfortunatly it overheated the primary in the process, so I connected 2 seperate transformers in series (primary coils only) and that fixed the overheating problem. I immersed BOTH transformers into a vat of car engine oil and it worked very well.

I see no reason the same configuration cannot be used inside a collum oil room heater by making a long steel bracket and attatching the trannies in line one behind the other and fed into the room heater (as long as there is oil to immerse them into).
It takes a little longer to heat the oil, but once heated it would keep being heated. I expect the "live" part of the circuit should be connected through the existing temperature thermostat to keep the output pegged to a set heat level.

Searching the net, I discovered there are different copper wire insulation varnishes which have set alowable temperature limites, but there are some transformers wound with these higher temperature insulated wires, so it may be possible to have temperatures reaching as high as 230 degreese, well within the comfortable tempranges of 20 to 28 degrees.
I found this looking for suppliers of bare copper wire to make my 2nd  stubblefield coil.

Just imagine heating the house using just the power required by 2 wall plug power packs lol.

Hooroo
jim
     
People who succeed with the impossible are mocked by those who say it cannot be done.

tishatang

@electricme
I am glad you are continuing with the heat generated by using a diode to power a transformer.  Hopefully this leads to more efficient heat generation?  Maybe you can run your input through a watt meter to get an idea of power consumed vs regular heater?

I just arrived back in California.  Weather starting to warm up here.   Will be some time before I can do experiments.  Have to play catchup on neglected things while I was gone to China.

Good luck to all.
tishatang

FrozenWaterLab

Well its been awhile - sorry
I found this thread and it appears my data should be here as opposed to the NS thread
August 8 2010 4:30pm AST (Alaska Standard Time)

Last 30 days a week ago broke all records for rainfall here in my area.
I gotta work in it - so I will not be out in it if I don't have to.

This perhaps is the reason for the slight reduction from last voltage reading
over on Joe's NS Rep Thread
So
3 - Holes (#1 & #2 with 4 ea and #3 with 3 Carbon rods)
Dug hole's 2&3 during breaks in the rain

All Current readings after 3min as initial reading drops right away

1st hole 2'7" deep to North has 4 carbon rods in it. All separated by 1' center fill.
(Depth corrected from last post as Leads stick up 5")
A= 2" diameter x 2' to west at bottom of hole.
B= 3/4" Squair x 8" to north at bottom of hole.
C= 1/2" x 2" x 15" to east at bottom of hole.
D= 3/4" Squair x 8" to south at top of hole, Bottom of rod aprox. 1'
E= an 8' x 5/8" Ground rod driven flush 3' to west of 1st hole. (Lots of work this one)

-------------------------------------------

I had the A-carbon shorted to the 65' magnesium and
the D-carbon to the 5' Mg for 2 weeks (Entrainment hopefully???)

I hooked the DMM leads to the wire before disconnection.
A at disconnect time read 1.14V - Two minutes later read 1.317
D at disconnect time read 1.14V and 1.264

After a 10min rest with no connection
A read 1.49V
D read 1.29V
(No conclusion here just data)

------------------------------------------------
Neg 60' away To

1A - 1.49V - 410uA
1B - 1.59V - 230uA
1C - 1.59V - 190uA
1D - 1.42V - 330uA
E - 1.47V - 560uA

----------------------------------------------------

On Hole#1 I did distance to neg Measurements
All 4 Pos carbons hooked together (Referred to as STAR)
To Single Neg Magnesium flush with surface


65'  =  1.55V    - 410uA
55'  =  1.527V - 435uA
45'  =  1.286V - 282uA
35'  =  1.5V      - 334uA
30'  =  1.55V   - 416uA
25'  =  1.53V   - 424uA
20'  =  1.57V   - 360uA
15'  =  1.35V   - 380uA
10'  =    V         -     uA
5'    =    V         -     uA

Neg=STAR(3)  &  Poss=STAR(4) Hole #1
1'    =   1.57V  -   1mA

-------------------------------------------------

Hole #1 Neg Mg's 6" - 12" - 5' distance

Neg Mg 6" distant

1a = 1.39V - 590uA
1b = 1.59V - 250uA
1c = 1.59V - 217uA
1d = 1.41V - 530uA

-----------

Neg Mg 12" distant

1a = 1.49V - 239uA
1b = 1.59V - 270uA
1c = 1.6V - 224uA
1d 1.42V - 490uA

-------------

Neg Mg 5' distant

1a = 1.35V - uA
1b = 1.45V - uA
1c = 1.46V - uA
1d = 1.29V - uA

------------------------------------------------

6" & 1' Neg together

1a = 1.55V - 630uA down to 570uA
1b = 1.65V - 311uA down to 221uA
1c = 1.66V - 240uA down to 180uA
1d = 1.47V - 560uA down to 530uA

---------------------------------------------
5' & 6" Neg together

1a =   V -   660uA
1b =   V -   270uA
1c =   V -   230uA
1d =   V -   560uA


-----------------------------------------------

60' & 5' & 1' & 6" all STAR together = Neg Mg's

1a =   V -   700uA Dt 620uA
1b =   V -   310uA Dt 210uA
1c =   V -   160uA Dt 130uA
1d =   V -   650uA Dt 588uA

-----------------------------------------------

2nd hole 3' deep to North has 4 carbon rods in it. All separated by 1' center fill.
A= 2" diameter x 2' to west at bottom of hole.
B= 3/4" Squair x 8" to north at bottom of hole.
C= 1/2" x 2" x 15" to east at bottom of hole.
D= 3/4" Squair x 8" to south at top of hole, Bottom of rod aprox. 1'

Neg at 1'

2a = 1.69V - 240uA Dt 203uA
2b = 1.73V - 257uA Dt 220uA
2c = 1.77V - 250uA Dt 215uA
2d = 1.6V  - 270uA Dt 264uA

2a&c = 1.76V 350uA Dt 320uA

--------------------

2 Neg Mg's and all 4 STAR Poss  = 1.74V - 570uA Dt 505uA

3 Neg Mg's and all 4 Star Poss =    V -    uA

---------------------------------------

Hole #3 3' deep 3-Carbons
A= 2" diameter x 2' to west at bottom of hole.
B= 3/4" Squair x 8" to north at bottom of hole.
C= 1/2" x 2" x 15" to east at bottom of hole.

3 Neg Mg's at 6" - 12" - 18"

6" Neg
3a = 1.6V - 310uA
3b = 1.61V - 220uA
3c = 1.63V - 300uA

---------

12"neg
3a = 1.55V - 296uA
3b = 1.55V - 215uA
3c = 1.5V - 272uA

---------------

18"neg
3a = 1.45V - 270uA
3b = 1.47V - 195uA
3c = 1.5V - 264uA

-----------

All Neg Star
3a = 1.59V - 305uA
3b = 1.6V - 195uA
3c = 1.58V - 276uA

All 3 Neg Star - All 3 Poss Star

     1.624V - 550uA

-----------------------------------------

Fence Chainlink type 200' ea side = Neg
Poss Holes in North East corner

DMM Neg to fence - DMM Pos to

E (Copper 8' Ground rod) = .75V - 330uA Dt 295uA
STAR H#1 = .84V - 500uA Dt 445uA (10' from East and North fence)
STAR H#2 = .84V - 270uA Dt 230uA (20' from E & 10 from N fence)
STAR H#3 = .711V - 124uA Dt 110uA (30' fron E & 10' from N fence)

Need to try Neg Mg STAR and Fence to STAR Poss all 3 holes
Then add Ground rod also
------------------------------------

OK Lots O data
From what I can see here where I am, it's not worth the effort to try for distance.
Prob. due to depth of my inclination angle.

I see an increase of both V & A by grouping elements
Weather clumped or strung out on meridian seams to be the same.
Depth is important for Positive element with proper Inclination Angle
(I need to try a Neg rod on its side say 1" in depth)
(I need to try carbon at the bottom of the hole) - This is another dig ;'(


I am going to place holes up by the house so I can run lines in for the winter.
Holes and copper ground rods will be in-frount of that Gray Glue Lam. ( that will be a ramp for the back deck for handy-capped access)
Also notice the unused Ariel  at about 30' (I have Cable now)
Don't know that much about radio or stuff like that but I'm learning.
Might try an Elevated Capacitance there. Alum glued to thin Plexie shouldn't be too heavy But will need to be at an angle to dump snow load.
   I was woundering if Shinny aluminum foil on a heavy alum sheet would work?
Don't want to have to shine up a 1/4" sheet.
Any Ideas for further testing would be appreciated.

I'm to page 50 and reading on this one
To Pg 168 on Joe's NSEb thread and will read more when I finish this one
Then theirs Tishatang 's 1 PGer but need to get it also
AND etc etc

Hope you all enjoy the data
FrznWtr
PS Proper hole digging implements

Cosmicfarmer

     I had to move and no longer have access to the ground. The move was fast and dirty and I don't have the results of my gigantic capacitor charging sheet, but I can tell you that I was able to acquire more joules using a single 650 farad capacitor then multiple. I think after a month of charging, I was only able to obtain .8 volts (2600 farad) when they were hooked together (additive, series), while I charged them in parallel. The charge speed dropped after .5 volts additive and was barely crawling for 3 weeks after that. My caps still have the charge still on them though, so I still have the essence of the ground with me.  Also my original plan of using a Stiffler exciter powered by a solar panel exciting the exterior of the capacitor would have only worked with the one cap. Sooo, I just need to miniaturize. Also a lower tech version of that could be wrapping a tin foil around the ground charge capacitor and hoisting a large airel connected to the external area of the cap. The differences in ground oscillation and air oscillations will excite the capacitor in a similar fashion as the stiffer oscillator would have. 


@FrozenWaterLab

!!!

That is alot of backbreaking , well documented work! I do confess that images would help but your time is better spent actually digging and whatnot, but the idea is clearly there. 

I got good results out of that honest 8 foot grounding rod as well, and yes it takes hard work getting it in. 

Looks like you had the most joules at the star arrangements of both + and - elements. Were they all depth tuned? That would take alot of work and someone else's hand to hold the meter while you wiggled the short one up and down.... Maybe depth tune one set at a time and then once all 3 sets are tuned, then link them in a star fashion. Also do you think that your results are based off of surface area (voltaic pile) or ground wave capture? Maybe the amps came from increased surface area while the higher-then-usual volts came from the groundwaves... Its hard to really tell... 


Some ideas for your airel antenna...  You can keep it the way it is and find the voltage difference between it and your large ground rod, Or make a JoeTate APM (ambient power module) and get a dozen volts at almost no amps, Or try my idea by connecting the exterior of a charging ground capacitor to the antenna (to accelerate the charging process) ,  Or if you wanted to make a better antenna that is flat, then instead of shining the metal, you should make it SCRATCHY! The micro spikes channel or funnel the energy a little better then a shiny surface (from what I hear), imagine a spike on top of a tesla coil , all the energy travels through the spike and mostly not anywhere else, same idea but a smaller scale. This idea works best when connected to the ground, as the flow is actually up and out. Hoist the flat metal antenna on a non conductor - wood or plastic, as a metal post will steal some of its power.

Good work and thanks for keeping the thread alive!