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Overunity Machines Forum



Friction heater running in my house

Started by oilpiggy, October 31, 2012, 02:25:24 PM

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JouleSeeker

#80
December 22, 2012, 10:55:45 PM
Quote from: JouleSeeker on December 19, 2012, 09:30:20 AM
I also find Gabriel's work to be very impressive, and encouraging! 
His device is amenable to careful scientific testing.

1.  First I would start with running the hot-cylinder alone in a water calorimeter, which I have built and calibrated in my home laboratory. I have used this calorimeter (and variations of it) in energy studies many times (see, for example, http://pesn.com/2012/11/19/9602225_Steven_Jones_replica--Pons_and_Fleischmann_XS_Heat_not_from_fusion/ ) 

2.  Careful measurements of the input power  (I have several types of meters for measuring input power if AC, and others for measuring input power for DC) and the output power (heating of a known quantity of water).  Among other power meters, I have a standard electric-power meter as used for homes on the grid.

3.  It would be very important to run CONTROLS, such as immersion heaters in water, to compare with the heat-output of Gabriel's device.

4.  For instance, one could use 500 watt-hours put into a simple immersion heater and measure the temperature-rise, and make sure the calorimeter is properly functioning and calibrated.  Then the SAME amount  (e.g. 500 watter-hours) would be fed to the motor on your device and the temperature-rise in the calorimeter from the hot-cylinder measured.  From this one can calculate the efficiency of the immersion heater = control (which should be close to 100%) and the efficiency of your device (presumably over 100% compared with input electrical energy; like a "heat pump" perhaps).  In "cold fusion" circles, this is simply called "anomalous excess heat" -- since the origin of the anomalous heat is currently unknown.
The measurement is conservative in that the heat in the motor is not measured for this straightforward first testing (heat from the motor could be measured later).

5.  Several tests would be done, varying the amount of water bath in the calorimeter, temperature probes used, etc.

6.  Later, if Gabriel agrees, I could arrange for use of a more sophisticated calorimeter.  But - I would not do this at first.  The above calorimetric tests can be done quickly and in a definitive way in my laboratory, as long as the anomalous xs heat is more than about 20% of the input electrical power.  I have already built and tested the needed equipment.

7.  AFTER these initial "anomalous heat" tests, I propose to test the device for safety by looking for any potentially dangerous emissions coming from the device -- looking for X-rays, gammas, betas, alphas, neutrons and RF radiation.  The device can be shielded to prevent harm, but it is crucial  IMO to make sure that the device is safe, for example for home use.  It is conceivable, although not likely IMO, that the anomalous heat is nuclear in origin (LENR), and if so the device may need to be shielded.

...(my web-site page:  http://www.physics.byu.edu/research/energy/ )

   Thanks Chet, and note @all that I had a communication from Gabriel that he accepts the above testing (there may be few variations).  I find so far that Gabriel is honest and willing to have his device tested rigorously.  The testing will likely take some time due to holiday travel and the time required for careful testing and evaluations.  Good science takes time.

Doug1

#81
December 22, 2012, 11:23:51 PM
Bruce
"There is no need to play the bad censor cop, it's simply stifling discussion."

To all :Not my intent to play cop of any sort. I thought I raised enough questions regarding the home's construction and more.
   If I wanted to play cop I would have asked for proof of the savings on his electric bill first .Two to three yr history of uttilty bills durring the winter.
    Regardless of any results from anyone unless they can prove they have tried everything possible then it is still in the "maybe" column.
   I would also like to know what viscosity oil he used maybe even the type of oil. The friction will change with temperature of the oil ,dropping the load on the motor as the oil heats up. An oil that starts out too thin will take longer to warm up from friction.

Bruce_TPU

#82
December 23, 2012, 12:23:23 AM
Quote from: Doug1 on December 22, 2012, 11:23:51 PM
Bruce
"There is no need to play the bad censor cop, it's simply stifling discussion."

To all :Not my intent to play cop of any sort. I thought I raised enough questions regarding the home's construction and more.
   If I wanted to play cop I would have asked for proof of the savings on his electric bill first .Two to three yr history of uttilty bills durring the winter.
    Regardless of any results from anyone unless they can prove they have tried everything possible then it is still in the "maybe" column.
   I would also like to know what viscosity oil he used maybe even the type of oil. The friction will change with temperature of the oil ,dropping the load on the motor as the oil heats up. An oil that starts out too thin will take longer to warm up from friction.
Huh??  Not "playing" any sort of "cop".  Simply answering MH post to me earlier.

I have already said that I find this heater "interesting", and actually took some time to research it, the history of friction heaters in the FE community, and spoke with Gabriel via email.  It is a detailed build with precise measurments.   I also found the idea of combining several ideas within the friction heater, "intriguing".  I actually like to build things, not just talk about them.  So my own version of a friction heater might make for a fun project.   ;) :)

Using the following idea, combined with nanoparticles mixed with the oil, to heat the oil and use as a heater (not as a water heater).  Same idea of friction heating the water.  This seems a bit more efficient at first glance to me.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yh_-DUKQ4Uw


Cheers,

Bruce
1.  Lindsay's Stack TPU Posted Picture.  All Wound CCW  Collectors three turns and HORIZONTAL, not vertical.

2.  3 Tube amps, sending three frequency's, each having two signals, one in-phase & one inverted 180 deg, opposing signals in each collector (via control wires). 

3.  Collector is Magnetic Loop Antenna, made of lamp chord wire, wound flat.  Inside loop is antenna, outside loop is for output.  First collector is tuned via tuned tank, to the fundamental.  Second collector is tuned tank to the second harmonic (component).  Third collector is tuned tank to the third harmonic (component)  Frequency is determined by taking the circumference frequency, reducing the size by .88 inches.  Divide this frequency by 1000, and you have your second harmonic.  Divide this by 2 and you have your fundamental.  Multiply that by 3 and you have your third harmonic component.  Tune the collectors to each of these.  Input the fundamental and two modulation frequencies, made to create replicas of the fundamental, second harmonic and the third.

4.  The three frequency's circulating in the collectors, both in phase and inverted, begin to create hundreds of thousands of created frequency's, via intermodulation, that subtract to the fundamental and its harmonics.  This is called "Catalyst".

5.  The three AC PURE sine signals, travel through the amplification stage, Nonlinear, producing the second harmonic and third.  (distortion)

6.  These signals then travel the control coils, are rectified by a full wave bridge, and then sent into the output outer loop as all positive pulsed DC.  This then becomes the output and "collects" the current.

P.S.  The Kicks are harmonic distortion with passive intermodulation.  Can't see it without a spectrum analyzer, normally unless trained to see it on a scope.

oilpiggy

#83
December 25, 2012, 06:30:03 PM
hello everyone,

I don't have much to say after reading the posts from MH.
I feel that I have been forthcoming with all my plans of this build. I some can not replicatethis build after everything I have posted,... I am at a loss... Look I have clearly stated that I am on the cost with my family and will not be spending any of my time with this heater or this forum untill I get back home.
As far as the 50$ for a cad drawing of this heater, I THINK that is a fair price.
I will not spoon feed people like you MH or entertain you by answer question that have already been answered.

Thank you everyone who is supporting this build. Together we can make a difference.

Back to my vacation and my wife and kids.

Thank you
Gabriel

JouleSeeker

#84
December 25, 2012, 08:27:00 PM
Hope you have a wonderful vacation, Gabriel, and merry Christmas everyone! 

I wouldn't worry too much about MH or those who mock.  Agapae love, said Paul, "vaunteth not itself, is not puffed up". 1 Corinthians 13

And a Happy New Year!
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