FBCS-Series, A Lighter Touch--Zero Input Power

[Spherenot]

@Spherenot,
Of what use is a free 10 mV peak-to-peak sine wave oscillating with Earth's magnetic field?

I think you've hit the Motherlode!
--giantkiller.

Thanks, GK.   

Those clips you see in the pic's go straight to the 'scope.  The planet Earth, (or HAARP,) is powering my coil.  Not useful power levels but useful for finding 1.43 MHz.  I am happy you persuaded me to get the scope. 

I have a long way to go.  Baby steps here.

[giantkiller]

@Spherenot,
You're welcome, on the scope. No more looking at blanks walls, eh?
Well if I don't achieve anything esle, that was worth it!

---giantkiller.

[MeggerMan]

I think I have got another way of winding this coil:
1. Take the two clear disks you get from a stack of blank CDRs.
2. Put them onto the spindle and drill a 4mm hole on the inside of the rib near the CD centre.
3. Put a 4mm bolt into this hole and drill 3 more holes at 90, 180, 270 degrees (first hole at 0 degrees).
4. Drill two small holes the diameter of your wire just outside the rib say 180 degrees apart.
5. feed two wires into these holes.
6. Add the remaining bolts.
7. Wind the coil whilst gripping the disks, do not allow the wires to twist inside the disks.
8. Tape the ends off to the edge of the disk.
Because the disks are clear this may not allow the experiment to work but you can see the coil while you wind it.
Dip the whole lot in water, shake it, then put it in the freezer. The extreme cold will cause the plastic to harden into its set shape and the water between the windings will bind them together.
Give it an hour or so, take it out, carefully pop the disks off the coil and replace with normal CDs.

I have been toying with various ideas for winding pancake coils for a few weeks now.
Two 1cm thick acrylic disks would be even better as a winding former as they do not flex.

I have been trying to figure out various ways to glue the windings in place as they are wound, without them sticking to the former, so that I can re-use the former for more coils.
Ideas like dipping the wire in varnish just before it is wound onto the former.
If I rub some wax onto the former halves before it is assembled it will not cause the varnish to stick to it. But will the varnish go off in a confined space with no air getting to it?
May need to experiment.

Regards

Rob

[Spherenot]

I have been toying with various ideas for winding pancake coils for a few weeks now.
Two 1cm thick acrylic disks would be even better as a winding former as they do not flex.

Yes.  I was thinking of winding inside a narrow gap as well.  We need rigidity along the whole radius of the back of the CD's; perhaps three or more right angle gussets.

Any flexing will allow the outer-spiral-wire the opportunity to slip past the inner-spiral-wire.

Another method to remedy this slipping may be the use of a flat profile wire.

Also, I would like someone to try it without the aluminum in the CD; using the clear CDs.  I do not know if the aluminum layer helped or hurt my results.  UPDATE: I tested this.  See first post for update.  Recommend using clear CDs from now on.

[hydrocontrol]

I think a very repeatable method to do this winding would be to have a etch PC boad of the pattern like a double Archimedean spiral. A PC board would allow for multiple layers and a flat wire profile. A layer could be a clockwise pattern against a counterclockwise pattern. A PC board would also allow for various line thicknesses. Years ago I did a Archimedean spiral PC board using a program called Graph Paper Printer. I think the program is now free and unsupported (at least the web sire is dead) but it only allowed a single Archimedean spiral. Perhaps someone here could do a dual Archimedean spiral layout for a PC board so everyone could have a common starting point.

Tom G:)