Luling magnet motor with 3D printed parts (motion only bij permanent magnets)

[knovos]

Perhaps the kundel magnetic coupling could  be a good alternative.  https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=yJu6IUlWzYI&t=163s

Thanks but to difficult for me. Every idea or system needs to be redesigned to fit on the magnet motor.
I don't see that done easily.

[synchro1]

Thanks but to difficult for me. Every idea or system needs to be redesigned to fit on the magnet motor.
I don't see that done easily.

The locking riciprocation from the unidirectional rotation as shown by the electric drill looks like a turn key solution.

[knovos]

To see if this new piston system will work, I copied the drawing of Ufipolitics almost exactly. Finding the right springs is still a problem, but the 304 stainless steel springs look good ( I have to order them) First 3D print and see if there is enough strength. Maybe the small lever is too weak but there is an option to let it come from two sides, or scale everything up.

[Ufopolitics]

Hello Knovos,


Wow, nice and clean interpretation of that Piston concept!!


I see you have made it squared instead of a Cylindrical Piston...but it should work fine as well, just for you to start experimenting...until it works perfectly well.


There is a problem with the way you have set the Catch Lever-Trigger:


The Lever Catch hook MUST grab the Piston, NOT just the rear moving yellow part...otherwise the piston will be loose, freely moving, not locked in place.


For our application, we need the piston to be very solid in place when retracted, because the magnetic forces will kick it back when it is rotating., after passing the sticky point.


So, if Piston is loose, Neutralization will be lost when gap is spread by piston movement...and your Motor will not fire up!!


The BEST way to hook the Piston is right at its BOTTOM CENTER, but I see no problems doing that in your design...all you need is to set it right at center of the rear cap extrusion.


Then you need to make a hole on the rear yellow part so the lever can go through it, without touching it when moving it up-down.



EDIT-1   Or You could also grab Piston by the bottom of outer frame, then you do not need to go through yellow rear moving cap.


Related to the Spring...


This device works entirely on INERTIA FORCES (F)...So, all the Laws related to Inertia, where MASS IS NOT CHANGING, applies to it or:



F=mXA

Acceleration is given by the Spring Tension, plus the Traveled Distance multiplied by mass...remember, a longer traveled distance equals to more Time...and Accelerations= Velocity change over Time:


Edit 2   A= V final- V start  / Time 1 - Time Final 

or

Delta V divided Delta Time

This means that we must allow Piston to develop a nice velocity change in a short time, in order to gain more acceleration resulting in a greater Force


Meaning, your Piston needs to be pretty heavy (weight) related to spring tension.


If you have a plastic Piston, you could add some inner weights, preferably on the thicker part and center of it.


There are a huge variety of tension springs out there, i suggest to get first one which is easier to pull...just with your hands.


A too heavy springs to be spread apart, would require a much heavier weight at Piston...that is why I will build my piston in Steel.


But, basically both (spring and piston weight) are directly related to obtain higher Force.


On your design, I would make also a Front Outer Cap that could also be screwed on, just as the rear is build.
This is in order to be able to replace just the center piece to EXTENDED more, in case your device works, but it does not travel enough, and its force is too weak...then spring needs to be more tense or need to add more  weight to piston...

Then I will suggest to use long screws (preferably stainless) with nuts-washers that pass by all three GREEN parts, Four, like you have, two upper and two lower...and make front cap also thick as rear one.


Realize that this END caps would be holding all the CONSTANT IMPACT, BANGING back and forth TWICE per RPM...so, the heavier you build this structure and main frame, the better.




Springs could be modified easily...by shortening it (reason I suggested to start with a softer spring)...to increase tension, by bending one circle at the desired distance where you feel pretty good tension, then with needle nose pliers bending it horizontally and cut it to leave the open hook shape...




Hope this helps




Regards




Ufopolitics

[Ufopolitics]

@Knovos,


One thing I have forgotten...


The Lever Catch Hook MuST BE at the very rear end of the Piston, just leaving a pretty thick and strong border where hook holds piston...


If you catch piston at center or further forward....hook will add friction when piston is going forward, so, the less surface of Piston that is in contact with hook the better.


And yes, we could also set another lever hook right on the top of Piston, which works linked to bottom one...so both open and close simultaneously...


I am also designing it in order that the rear moving cap extension pushes both levers linkages to FORCE the locking of piston.


But it is better not to complicate it more for Now...until you get it tested real good and happy with outcome...then it is running time!!



Regards




Ufopolitics