Luling magnet motor with 3D printed parts (motion only bij permanent magnets)

[Ufopolitics]

MORE ABOUT THE SPRINGS...


In my setup I used Four springs...However, to start with this... is better to start with TWO Springs, one upper and other lower...or sideways...or in Diagonal, but ALWAYS, apart at 180º, in order to BALANCE FORCES applied to piston AS ALSO the moving-pushing yellow plates not to angle then tend to get stock when sliding in tracks...


By adding more springs , even softer springs to this set up...you will be adding more force to your device...and so, your piston would need more mass-weight to be able to push enough tension on springs.


Then, for testing is better to start with lower parameters and adding more as testing forces increase...




HOWEVER, You need to know the EXACT Force required to pull apart your magnets, related to their spec's!!...Otherwise you will be "driving blindly"...

Every magnet, even same configurations and Spec's, have a varying Attraction Force...most of magnets you order on line have being tested very lightly...and they never have the same strength...of course...the variation between same magnets is not huge...However, for this Motor we do need to have an accurate measurement, whether for Neutralization or to eject magnets in attraction apart...




That is why I set my design to be able to ADJUST the GAP...which solves this issue on the Neutralization Stage...


However, on the setting of the Attract magnets mechanisms stage...we do  not have a way to adjust Forces applied on Stator Magnets...and it is only on the Mechanism we are building, we can do that.


That is why I highly recommended the Digital Force Gauge...as it will also be used to measure your Springs Force, PLUS your Piston Force , MAINLY when going FORWARD!!

If your Piston does not have the enough force to pull magnet apart.. Your Motor simply will not run...




Or You could do it by Test and Fail, Test and Fail...until you hit the required force...but that is very time consuming, and materials wasted...




The choice is up to you...




Regards




Ufopolitics

[knovos]

Oh boy, while working on the prints and your advice I discovered that the yellow backplate could not move enough to the front because the lever hook itself blocked it.
I lowered it way more so there is now enough room for the yellow backplate to come forward but the swing is also very long now.


Thanks for all the remarks!


Let's move on.


regards,
Knovos.

[Ufopolitics]

Oh boy, while working on the prints and your advice I discovered that the yellow backplate could not move enough to the front because the lever hook itself blocked it.
I lowered it way more so there is now enough room for the yellow backplate to come forward but the swing is also very long now.


Thanks for all the remarks!


Let's move on.


regards,
Knovos.

Hello Knovos, am sorry I did not noticed until this morning when I look closely at your setup...


Ok, To reduce the lever travel, you need to make the hook arm shorter, by getting the shaft where it pivots closer to Piston...

You may have to EXTEND DOWN your lower outer green case where lever-hook pivots...sorry!!


This way is much better as the force required to move the trigger (or longer lever on the other side of pivot point) will be much less (softer).


Also, the Hook size (height), try to make it as short as you could, however it must grab Piston well and solid... in order that your trigger travel will also be shorter...




You are doing great!!




Ufopolitics

[knovos]

My screenshot was not that good so you could not see it easily.
I did some more mods to make the swing short again.
The two hooks are grabbing more outside now
I can make the hook shorter but will look at it first how it works.


Ya, you trigger me again about the gauss meter.
When you are able to measure forces you know what you are doing.
I will take a look at Alie.


regards
Knovos

[Ufopolitics]

Yes, I see it clearly now!!


It looks great!!


I did your setup, plus I added a file where I will keep track...to answer with graphics...


I like the way you have the hook!!...it is double sided so it guarantees a very good grab-hooking of Piston.


Now a couple of suggestions... and look at my graph...


First I would use just two springs...and the BEST Position to set them is at  Center of running Piston Shaft, in  order that forces are distributed evenly...


Second, a reminder about Lever-Fulcrum laws written on graphic...D1 > D2
This is needed for softer, less force required for manipulation of trigger lever which connects to Rotor...


However, you could extend Trigger Level by adding an extra piece...


So, D2 or Hooker side lever should always be shorter than Trigger level D1.




Great job!!




P.D: Is NOT a Gauss Meter I was referring to...it is a Digital FORCE Scale!!!...to measure PHYSICAL FORCES on PULLING and PUSHING!!


EDIT 1:And also I am showing the Full Bolted outer housing as I have recommended...
As I am worried because of the banging back and forth...your screws to plastic will strip and come apart while running!!