The Tesla Project

[armagdn03]

just to make sure you understood what I said, try hooking up an ohm meter to the terminals of your microwave oven cap, if it reads a resistance, then there could be problems. If it reads zero, you are good to go.

[am1ll3r]

@ wattsup,

Was reading through the threads again an I noticed on your schematic your transformer appears to be backwards.Is it just drawn wrong or is that the way you have it? Maybe I'm wrong but i thought it is supposed to the other way around. I tried my setup both ways and when doing it the same way you have it I get lousy results ...cant charge a cap at all.

[wattsup]

@am1ll3r

In Erfinder instructions, the choke goes to the primary (which is the 240V side) and the secondary is the working circuit (which is the 24v side). I have tried it both ways also and it works OK. Also tried it with two other transformers and it also works, but in all instances, you will need to play around with capacitor values to get the right toggling action on the first relay.

Also, you can try putting the capacitor connection that now goes to the blue wire going to the relay coil and choke side, to the other side of the choke going to the NC relay contact. This will give you the full inductance of both the relay coil and the choke, to charge the capacitor.

If you look at the diagram, the primary of the transformer is completely isolated since  both sides are connected to the two N/O terminals of the relay. All this circuit is basically doing is charging the cap and discharging it into the primary (or secondary if the other way around), plus it is cycling the power going to the relay to reset itself.

I have tried putting that cap at various other locations but cannot achieve the complete connection of the common terminal to the N/O terminal, This is the only way I have found this to work.

By the way, I am now working on the second relay connections which is much more trickier to do since there is no choke to increase the inductance. All we have is a relay, a diode and a cap. Plus the damn relay keeps hogging the juice as it is produced so it really has to be isolated until there is enough build-up to make it toggle. But a regular diode just let's the juice pass at a much lower voltage so the relay coil hogs it up again.

I have made it work in various ways but not to my satisfaction. I am sure I will need a zener diode rated at 10-12 volts as this would act like a solenoid, opening only when their is enough juice. I am concentrating my tests to try and recharge the source battery and see if the voltage off the battery will rise. That would be the icing on the cake. lol

For your set-up, you need to have more capacitors. Erfinders initial 47uf was a place to start but you need to tune your specific relay coil/choke inductance to capacitance in order to make that relay toggle to both the N/C and N/O terminals. Put a meter on the N/O side to see if you get any output off the relay, since it may be hard to see if the relay is clicking to fast. Also make sure your wires on the relay are well tightened since a few of them may heat up and get loose.

More fun to come.

[barbosi]

In Erfinder instructions, the choke goes to the primary [snip]

He was referring to the primary as in the patent.
If you read the patent...

More fun to come.

[armagdn03]

  electrically this should look identical to the patent.