URGENT! WATER AS FUEL DISCOVERY FOR EVERYONE TO SHARE

[stu]

Hi stu,

It is a good idea to build the simple strobe device and see and understand how it work. With the other circuit, the sig gen is simply to replicate an ICE firing the ignition coil. But if you are considering trying the strobe circuit on an ICE, it will not serve your purpose as it is only capable of charging it's capacitor up about once every second. It is only being powered by a 9V battery after all. The strobe device is simply a demonstration device to shown how easy it is to explode water with little input power.

Regards,

Ossie

Thanks Ossie, but what I was thinking of was purely about proving the new circuit on the bench (my build quality) - with this in mind is it okay to drive it with the srobe, in the way I had mentioned, before considering attaching it to an ICE?

[k4zep]

WATCH WORKING s1r9a9m9 REPLICATION

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nnUv6M0N6z4

details
http://www.overunity.com/index.php/topic,3977.new.html

Hi Cap70,

Wow, I feel I'm running at the back of the pack here.  You obviously have your electronics down pat for your engine but you have a real water/fuel delivery problem.  A carburetor is designed to atomize gas into a vapor, mix the correct amount of air and then the engine runs on it.  The plasma process doesn't use a vapor from a carb but I think needs a wetting of the plug with water, injection/mist, etc.  But my hat is off to you!!!! 

The strange thunka thunkkkkkkk sound of all the water engines I have heard run so far,  I suspect are caused by the timing firing position and the air intake noise we are not used to hearing as it sucks in air ....

The funny thing is it might be possible that this engine doesn't need intake air to run, only displacement for the generated hydrogen/oxygen gas to burn plus the pressure wave from the break down process to expand on the down stroke of the engine!  If this theory is correct as to what I hear when an engine is running, it has very little to do with compression as compression is going away when the plug fires somewhere after TDC (35 degrees?). 

Anyway, all keep at it..............I am encouraged!!!!!  Now I have to go peel potatoes for tater salad for this afternoon, Honey doooosss,
motor can wait. Family and boat trip for 8 this afternoon can't.


Ben

[qiman]

make sure your inverter's input and output is isolated fully from the ignition coil circuit. There must not be any common ground connections.

Hi Callanan,

I enjoyed your vids and posts.

My inverter had built in protection so it simply trips itself to prevent overload. Then I simply turn it off then back on and it is fine.

There are some very specific ways to design the circuit so that worrying about the isolation is not even an issue. There is extra benefits to this that I will discuss later.

Anyway, if someone wants most of the circuit you're showing for free...go to any grocery store that processes photos and tell them you're doing a science project and ask for some disposable cameras. You will get free strobes, batts and photoflash caps. You won't drive around the planet with that , but it is free usually and is enough for anyone to demo the effect to themselves. Other than the disposable camera that was tossed, battery, plug, wire and ignition coil.

[bumfuzzled]

@All
One problem in converting small ICE's,  is that they use a magneto system.  There is a permanent magnet embedded in the flywheel.  This allows only a small change in timing for most of these engines.  There is no distributor to twist to get a 25  degree retard of timing.  To get proper timing with these engines you could collect the magneto discharge into a high voltage cap and discharge the cap with an optical sensor or something you can adjust on the output shaft.  Or, since you have to have an external timing sensor, you may as well use a conventional ignition coil and forget the magneto and dangerous to have charged HV cap. 

I am not a motorcycle guy, But I seem to remember my son's old Honda had coils and a distributor.  If so, then maybe motorcycle engines solve the timing problem?

Tishatang

All you have to do is remove the key from the flywheel then you can set the timing wherever you want. Just be sure to tighten the flywheel back down real good. Yes there's some guess work but you can get it close enough. This is what the go kart racers do to them.

I have an old Honda 550 4 cylinder sitting in the shed that would be easy as far as getting the timing right but 4 cylinders would be much harder to get running than one cylinder so I'll stick with the little B&S for now.

[Koen1]

Alright, alright, perhaps I'm just a bit overanxious to get to the engine part.
I'll turn it down a bit.

I just got the impression we were already doing very well with the plasma ignition
and the circuit that I thought we might be ready to move to the engine part of
the story already.
And since s1r9a9m9 has been posting about his working V8, I thought "here we go".

But if you guys want to work out the circuit some more and come up with a
"standardised" circuit for this before we start trying things in engines,
that's fine with me.
Don't let my enthousiasm complicate your circuit tests.

@xbox hacker: hehe, I see someone else is anxious to get this to work
in an engine setup So, let me see if I got you: you used a mower engine,
pulled out the spark plug, hooked it to the circuit and adjusted some things
so it worked and produced the plasma ignition effect just like Ossie and
Lucs curcuit does...  But it only works if the plug is not "grounded" to the body
of the mower? Hmm...