URGENT! WATER AS FUEL DISCOVERY FOR EVERYONE TO SHARE

[LarryC]

@ Luc, Ossie and all
In this video presented to the group here,
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=l54wlbi0Szk

qiman/Aaron is challenging us.
We are continuing to design/modify circuits around a basic premise that we have adopted defacto.

That is, we assume we are piggybacking a HV spark onto a LV spark as a simultaneous event to produce the plasma effect.

He clearly shows the HV spark can be separated (unless I misunderstood) and still produce the plasma effect.

Am I right about this?

His circuit diagram shows that it is using the HV spark from the coil and the capacitors LV at the same time. It does work, did it several times before I finished off my few diodes.

Regards, Larry

[goldenequity]

So.... is that spark on spark?
or spark on field?

[retrod]

Hi vlpe,

My tests have shown that you need at least 90-100 volts minimum to cause a plasma discharge across the ignition spark in a spark plug set for a standard gap. An inverter raises 12 volts to 110 or 240 volts for this purpose. Many other methods and DC power supplies can be used for this purpose. But considering the relatively cheap price of inverters these days, it is quite convienient to use one. As long as you know what your doing and don't blow it up...

Regards,

Ossie

@Ossie & all. I'm still waiting for my inverter but decided to experiement with my spare Toro lawnmower today. I used the Ossie circuit with 16 diodes in series. In place of the inverter I used my trusty EICO lab bench hv power supply. My cap was rated at 350 volts so I set the supply to about 275. I found out the hard way that the magneto on the Toro puts out negative pulses, not positive like I expected. This was confusing until I verified it with a Simpson 260 meter. 
The motor running on gasoline acts a bit different with the plasma turned on. I sprayed water into the intake and clamped the fuel hose, the motor did finally come to a stop. I then noticed the power supply was not keeping up with the discharges (in current limit). I posted this so you are all aware that the pulse polarity from an ignition system is not always positive. When my inverter arrives I will at least be aware of how the connections must be made for the negative magneto.
If you are having any trouble understanding basic ignition/electrical sytems here is a primer written by Toro that is very good and worth a look. www.age.psu.edu/tae/902/Electrical/Electrical%20Systems%20Toro.pdf

RD

[gettinwet]

I figure I have lurked long enough. I can not add much at this point since I know nothing of electronics. But when focus is moved to the engines I will be much more suited to participate in discussions. I have a 1967 Pontiac 400 rebuilt sitting on an engine stand awaiting. 

I just watched capacitor70 video. The funny sound you hear that some of you say is distinct to the water engines like this one and S1r's is due to the muffler being removed. Go take the muffler off yer lawnmower and start it up and you'll see what I mean, it's sort of a popping sound.

He says it will only run with the choke on, my guess is that you gotta remember water is heavier than gasoline so it might have a harder time getting sucked up thru the venturi than gasoline. Also when you choke a carb it sucks more fuel in, maybe water needs a richer mixture than gasoine so you'll have to jet the carb bigger. These are things to play with once I get it installed on a motor.

I remember reading in a PDF that S1r used 2 sizes larger carb jets.

[LarryC]

So.... is that spark on spark?
or spark on field?

I don't know what is happing, right now I'm leaning towards the video explanation. I got a big white/blue flash and bang with no water! About the same as I was getting before on the old circuit with water, except it had some orange. Didn't get to try with water before the diodes failed.

Can anyone else try with water?

I was using a 120uf 200V cap.

Regards, Larry