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Overunity Machines Forum



URGENT! WATER AS FUEL DISCOVERY FOR EVERYONE TO SHARE

Started by gotoluc, June 26, 2008, 06:01:38 PM

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0 Members and 13 Guests are viewing this topic.

gmeast

Quote from: lapperll on November 01, 2008, 02:38:03 PM
Greg,

  Thank you for your encouraging words.  That means a lot coming from someone of your stature. 

I had a question on your oscillator circuit.  What values are you using for C1 & C2?  also what type of diodes for D1 & D2?

I also found this circuit on the net but have read that there are a lot of issues with finding the proper cap values to use.  It appears that what you have selected works fine.

Great job!!!

LapperLL

Hi LaperLL,

The one I downloaded is below.  I don't use the two 3055's on the right nor do I use the 0.1 Ohm resistors on the emitters (they just keep the pairs from fighting).  The diodes were 1N5408 cause I had them then got some 10 A  x 100V ones ... don't know why ... the 5408's got warm but not hot.  The mating resistors are 10 Ohm - 5 Watt.  The Caps are 470 uF x 25 VDC (pairs). Some of the online schematics say you need to use Tantalum caps but this schematic uses dumb old electrolytics joined (-) to ( -).  The mating resistors are 180 Ohm - 5 Watt.  The transformer is 115VAC Single primary x 12.6VAC Center Tapped x 0.3 Amps Mouser P/N 41PG300.  The type of load affects the frequency so if you have a scope it helps with tuning if needed.

Followed by a voltage doubler.

I have not, but I should, try the 110V x 24V or the 110V x 18V like in the picture, but I had the Mouser one.  If you build lt like the picture let me know how it goes.  The picture calls for some pretty high current xformers.

Now, this won't give the blast of an inverter and it sags at high RPM as power is drawn for the plasma ... and that's because it's not really a step up transformer ... it's run in reverse.  But this let me settle on some sort of plasma system that probably won't self destruct.  I'm only using 4 uF oil filled on the CDI Cap,  so it's a pretty modest system.  But it still explodes water.  It provides a smooth and steady (faster) idle with no choke on a cold engine and the Bug is very peppy now. 

Hope this helps.  Peace,

Greg


lapperll

Greg,

Thanks for the info.  That is basically the same schematics that I found.  The one I found also states to use a 24vdc center tap transformer.  It even explains how to convert a MOT.  I don't think converting a MOT would be necessary as we are not drawing that much current, but maybe the 24vdc tranny will provide the voltage required at higher RPM's.  I think that I will get one of each and see which one works best.  I haven't had any inverter issues but it looks as if your oscillator draws much less power, and that is always better.

Again, thanks for the info and here is a copy of the schematic that I found.  As I stated, my research on this circuit has found that it has issues and most say it does not work as written.  I think the different cap configuration in your circuit makes it more stable and keeps the caps from exploding.

LapperLL





Part    Total Qty.       Description
   

C1, C2   2   68 uf, 25 V Tantalum Capacitor   
R1, R2   2   10 Ohm, 5 Watt Resistor   
R3, R4   2   180 Ohm, 1 Watt Resistor   
D1, D2   2   HEP 154 Silicon Diode   
Q1, Q2   2   2N3055 NPN Transistor (see "Notes")   
T1   1   24V, Center Tapped Transformer (see "Notes")   
MISC   1   Wire, Case, Receptical (For Output)   
   

Notes

   1. Q1 and Q2, as well as T1, determine how much wattage the inverter can supply. With Q1,Q2=2N3055 and T1= 15 A, the inverter can supply about 300 watts. Larger transformers and more powerful transistors can be substituted for T1, Q1 and Q2 for more power.

   2. The easiest and least expensive way to get a large T1 is to re-wind an old microwave transformer. These transformers are rated at about 1KW and are perfect. Go to a local TV repair shop and dig through the dumpster until you get the largest microwave you can find. The bigger the microwave the bigger transformer. Remove the transformer, being careful not to touch the large high voltage capacitor that might still be charged. If you want, you can test the transformer, but they are usually still good. Now, remove the old 2000 V secondary, being careful not to damage the primary. Leave the primary in tact. Now, wind on 12 turns of wire, twist a loop (center tap), and wind on 12 more turns. The guage of the wire will depend on how much current you plan to have the transformer supply. Enamel covered magnet wire works great for this. Now secure the windings with tape. Thats all there is to it. Remember to use high current transistors for Q1 and Q2. The 2N3055's in the parts list can only handle 15 amps each.

   3. Remember, when operating at high wattages, this circuit draws huge amounts of current. Don't let your battery go dead :-).

   4. Since this project produces 120 VAC, you must include a fuse and build the project in a case.

   5. You must use tantalum capacitors for C1 and C2. Regular electrolytics will overheat and explode. And yes, 68uF is the correct value. There are no substitutions.

   6. This circuit can be tricky to get going. Differences in transformers, transistors, parts substitutions or anything else not on this page may cause it to not function.

   7. If you want to make 220/240 VAC instead of 120 VAC, you need a transformer with a 220/240 primary (used as the secondary in this circuit as the transformer is backwards) instead of the 120V unit specified here. The rest of the circuit stays the same. But it takes twice the current at 12V to produce 240V as it does 120V.

gmeast

Quote from: lapperll on November 01, 2008, 06:46:06 PM
Greg,

Thanks for the info.  That is basically the same schematics that I found.  The one I found also states to use a 24vdc center tap transformer.  It even explains how to convert a MOT.  I don't think converting a MOT would be necessary as we are not drawing that much current, but maybe the 24vdc tranny will provide the voltage required at higher RPM's.  I think that I will get one of each and see which one works best.  I haven't had any inverter issues but it looks as if your oscillator draws much less power, and that is always better.

Again, thanks for the info and here is a copy of the schematic that I found.  As I stated, my research on this circuit has found that it has issues and most say it does not work as written.  I think the different cap configuration in your circuit makes it more stable and keeps the caps from exploding.

LapperLL

......................................


LapperLL,

Yeah, I just ordered a 20 VAC x 1.2A through hole tranny myself as an upgrad to what I have ... just not enough copper wire ... too high a resistance on the outbound.  Just for kicks the one I just ordered is Mouser #546-164G20 (20VCT@.6A 10V@1.2A).

I'll see if that does it ... but right now I'm still pretty happy.

Greg

gmeast

Quote from: gmeast on November 01, 2008, 07:35:19 PM
LapperLL,

Yeah, I just ordered a 20 VAC x 1.2A through hole tranny myself as an upgrad to what I have ... just not enough copper wire ... too high a resistance on the outbound.  Just for kicks the one I just ordered is Mouser #546-164G20 (20VCT@.6A 10V@1.2A).

I'll see if that does it ... but right now I'm still pretty happy.

Greg

...........also, I have a TVS across the 12VDC supply into the oscillator ... to make sure.

Greg

Damianos

Mr greg, hi, my name is Damianos
I am very happy to write here.

Some days before, I had an idea to use the AC from the altenator (generator) of the car before the "heavy" diodes in it, which make DC.
So, I borrowd for a bit and I modiffied your first plan as this in my attach.

With this idea we dont need to make AC for our transformer any more...
The only possible difficulty is to open the altenator (generator) of the car

Thank you