Selfrunning Free Energy devices up to 5 KW from Tariel Kapanadze

[Hope]

I believe I have made an important correlation from a Youtube I saw where a torrid coil lighting a lamp could be switched on or off by using two magnets 180 degrees apart.  If both magnets were in N-N and S-S configuration then the lamp was off.  The magnets were place on top of the Tcoil, facing  toward the circumference of the coil.
Therefore when your making any coil perhaps you can magnetically cut the spool wire out of the circuit as to make it possible to measure the coils characteristics up to the point you have wound (but not physically so you can make adjustments to coil later if you need more or less winds.)  This method will help us tune any coil on the build (fly) easily.  So if you want to temporarily fake taking the spool wire out of the circuit try two neo magnets with the poles facing each other (you may have to place the magnets at where you think you want to cut the wire and the end of the spool or maybe the assumed cut area and a few inches toward the spool.  Hope this works like I believe it to, someone check this out and inform the rest of us please.  Good luck all.    AND if you need to change a phase of a signal use an isolation transformer and inject it at one side of the primary and take it from either the other side of the primary or the side you need from the secondary.  You can make a sider with a C- CLAMP (you can figure out how to mount the pick) to take it from ANY point along the windings to make your phases meet how you want in the colliding wave front.  This will keep your FG safe.

Still waiting on ground mail delivery of my PCSU1000.

Edited a couple times for readability and specifics.

[T-1000]

Still waiting on ground mail delivery of my PCSU1000.

You will also need to order probe 1:1000 from different vendor then adjust it....

[Hope]

@Mannix

Can you re-do your last post experiment but this time when you have both FG -/+ on the copper strip, try removing the negative and see what happens with only one wire pulsing and sweep for frequencies. I am thinking that maybe the HV does not need a spark gap and one wire only would do the trick. This would really lower the flyback energy consumption as all you really need is for the HV to act on the core. It is as if the HV on the copper strip is analog to a degaussing coil that is quickly resetting or biasing the core ions or atoms for the greatest core movement when the two primaries give their respective impulses. Don't know really but it is very interesting.

@all

My next tests will be with two and three frequencies. This is really where the fun starts.

wattsup
[/quote]


Ahha!  the HV is like the rain fall and the coil is like a unsaturated sponge (so to speak).  That's a brilliant thought Mr.!

So perhaps the copper strip is squeezing the pathway of the yoke coil windings magnetically causing a electrical friction as in two clouds meeting and causing lighting.   

Richard

Edited yet again!

SO if we replace the HV with instead a large ground plane antenna we might gain external wavelengths fast enough to preclude the use of HV?

[baroutologos]

A hand of help to tinkerers.

I would like T-1000 and team to work out some ways for eliminating the FGs, thus having a stand alone with trust worthy power measurements device.

....
Addressing the HV cap issue
...

I was trying to address the issue of HV variable capacitor in a cheap way. (see photo) I took one small two gang varicap and tried to emerge it in high quality transformer oil.
I was estimating at getting a variable cap 20-500pf at 5Kv or so.

The whole poject failed due to the effect that if oil gets between the cap plates (0.1mm apart) the plates stucked like being glued together! The principle of Tesla turbine in its whole glory... Anyway, cap was destroyed by forcing it to turn, but lesson taken.

I have been able to address this problem, and anyone can, by having a variable inductance made of ferrite rod and wire able at handling the estimated amperage at the those (1-2 Mhz) frequency. Not hard task even for having great accuracy.


Adressing the HV probe
...
A tested and easy way for this is to create a voltage devider of your own. I assemble two resistors, making a voltage divider 1:25 namely onw 2w 850K and one 34 K some 5 w each. I manage to measure accurately (from a custom HV inverter) some 4,4 KV p-p. This way i can measure as much as i like!

Important Note: Attach voltage divider so as the measurements to be taken at the "cold" end of the circuit and not the hot end one (not in the HV standing wave). In other words, high ohm resisstance end of the divider goes to "hot lead" and lower ohm resistance to "cold" lead. Apply o-scope probes at end of low resistance.

Important to uphold this procedure. I would not held responsible if you burn out your scope otherwise


I hope someones finds those useful

[Hope]

First, destroying your air cap is regrettable, you can make a new one by following my DIY link just a few of my comments back.  Secondly, for making a HV air cap. (tuner) one  STILL AIR TYPE make the plates much further apart   I would make the housing out of plastic or Bakelite.   Knitting needles for shafts and thinking what is critical is to have spacing adjustable PLATES of sufficient size to hold a tuned charge.  Goldmine electronics sells a HV 4Kv transformer with NO DIODES you can source one easy and at Instructables.com you can get the instructions and parts list to make a HV Probe safety AND all sorts of items you will need or build cheaply. 

I would think you should increase the physical scale of the air cap tuner proportionally until it meets the voltage requirements.  Like if the original was 5 inches long and 4 inches wide and 4 inches high and was a 50v unit then possibly a 5KV unit will  have to be 30 inches long and 20 inches wide and so forth   seek dimensions on a new one on the net somewhere to get in the ballpark on size.  There are lots of circuits available at that DIY site. FREE!