@qiman
There are things happening in the spark which we don't fully understand. I was thinking, maybe the ir light from the ir temperature meter is being absorbed or manipulated or whatever, therefore it isn't showing the correct temperature. Maybe a low-tech temp-meter should be used, just to be sure it is really dropping.
Just a thought.

(I see tinu asked the same)

For those with a spark/arc setup.... I have a simple idea that I would like someone to try out.
then again, maybe not so simple, but you never know... until you find out.

The concept would be to use capillary action.... instead of fog and mist.

A bottle of water suspended with a capillary tube output that enables a small "ball" of water to hang at its tip.
Place the "ball" between the electrodes and fire it up and tell us what happens.

I would think getting the tube to "re-feed" another "ball" in sync with the next spark might be a problem,
but I would think we could fire off at least one.

Just a thought. 

Does any one know if the ceramic formula for a spark plug is difficult to duplicate ? Chet
Actually I just realized something    ceramic epoxies are used on the shuttle   ITW developed this Tech for NASA years ago and marketed it later on   and it is still available   However they where fighting high temp this does not seem relevant here[temp]so casting a plug with a water jacket just got a lot easier

Hi all.  Please HELP!
I am not an EE and not that good at auto mechanics either. But I am very excited about the work you all are doing on making a (standard) internal cumbustion engine run on water. It looks very doable and promising.  I got so excited I wanted to try Ossi's experiment as posted on page 6 reply #235.  I bought all the parts, except the strobe light which I could not find.  Now, looking at the diagram and pictures it appears the battery + and - wires go into the strobe light and from there the + wire seems to go through the coil + side to the plug AND around the coil to the plug (with diodes in this path to protect against curent backflow (layman terms). The - wire looks like it goes to the coil - side then to ground at (effectively) the plug base.  It also appears (in the video) that the strobe light creates a pulsing action that causes the plug to spark about every second.  So, I decided since I did not have the strobe light, I could just wire up the  test according to the digram and pictures, (making sure the diodes were wired in the same direction) then connect the - wire to the battery - terminal.  To complete the circuit and create a spark, I would just tap the + wire to the + batery terminal.  But alas when I tried this, no spark?  Then, I disconnected the + wire from the + side of the coil and the plug, tapped the + wire to the + side of the battery, and wala, spark!  In laymans terms, is that strobe light providing some magical separation of the current such that it goes to directly to the plug sometimes then breaks that current to go through the coil to the plug the next time?  Thanks all of you for your research and for the help you provide to those of us not quite as talented as yourselves.

Quote from: ramset on July 09, 2008, 01:36:08 PM
Does any one know if the ceramic formula for a spark plug is difficult to duplicate ? Chet
Actually I just realized something    ceramic epoxies are used on the shuttle   ITW developed this Tech for NASA years ago and marketed it later on   and it is still available   However they where fighting high temp this does not seem relevant here[temp]so casting a plug with a water jacket just got a lot easier

Ramset

On my  thread

http://www.overunity.com/index.php/topic,5088.0.html

In  reply 4  I have  the part #  and link  for  what I plan to try .

It is  a 2 part  mix


I have not  tried it  yet   


gary