as i have seen ..   

the core is not required nor is the secondary .. i can achieve the same results from a simple peice of wire ..

ist!

it is the inductance ... low inductance = HIGH CURRENT SPIKE .. high inductance limits consumption and = high voltage spike  .. hence how i BORROW THE ENGERY FROM SOURCE it runs with gain the gain from opening the contact and closeing it .. it is only allowed to exit through the load ..

ie .. the bulb ... power the bulb first .. from source then allow the colpase to be used by the bulb .. when first engergized  the bulb will be verry dull if lit at all ... : )

Hmm true, tried out on some other coils, yes it works without core and without secondary coil at all (although not that good on my handwound examples - but it works). These spark actions however drain very much power from the batteries... and very fast...

Well anyways, I experimented around and somehow came to the "Boost converter" circuit posted on page 5 which works good with an LED.

Hmm... I'm stuck a little bit; where is the OU to be found? Ok, the explanaton in Wikipedia regarding the boost converter says, that the coil absorbs energy when the connection is closed and it delivers energy when the connection is open (if using an LED in the circuit). Now what do I need to do.... do I need to wind a monster coil, so that it sucks out all energy from the batteries, and then when opening the switch it delivers this collected power to a load?

However, after experiencing how fast a battery drains, I am not sure if that is reasonable Maybe I'm also on the wrong path of what you wanted to demonstrate, @IST.

ok well you got results .. so this is good

if you can get a MOT . comprehenction will set in ..

try diffrent wireing configurations ..  this is polarity synced ... 

this means as i have seen 1 way it helps you the other ..  it hinders you ..

so  think how you can use 2 coils and BOUNCE ALL THE CURRENT AND BOTH KICKS TO OUTPUT !

IST!

YOU CAN ALSO ADD A CAP SO IT CONSUMES LESS..

watch this video .. im useing 13.5vdc 1amp ..

: )

ist

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=o77fF7ciD-0&feature=related

here is another video

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CRhk_my7b2A&feature=related

New movie in cinema "Saw IX - the Riddles of IST"

Ok, at the risk of making myself a total noob I go back to the basics, and therefore back to root experiments with the "kick". I use a 1.5 V battery and power a LED with the circuit below (and also the same circuit as in neo-zap, secondary transformer side open). As IST has already mentioned it is the collapse of the magnetic field that is important, others call it BEMF. As far as I have seen the Joule Thief works on that principle as well.

I got now 4 different results, as seen below, with the best result gained from only 1 arrangement, which is number #2. The results are gained only when opening the switch causing the collapse. When closing the switch the LED does not lighten up at all. Looking at the best result arrangement it looks like the LED is wrongly polarised, still it works remarkably best from all of them.

I wonder why... and also wonder if this could magnified a lot more. Unfortunately I was not able to measure current and voltage because my Multimeter is simply too lazy to react on the kicks. This makes extending the device more diffcult.

Is it that what you are talking about, IST: 1 arrangement creates high current peaks, and another one makes high voltage peaks? Unfortunately this is only "guess-work", because I can't determine which is which, my multimeter cannot even recognize the peak where the LED flashes very strong