xenophed - I did some experimenting, although I am not an expert and my equipment is even more limited than yours. It seems like I'm doing something wrong...


I built the driver as shown in the newer diagram, used BD242C and BD241C as the Qs, they handle up to 40 Watts under ideal cooling conditions. I tried various caps from 1 to 200 pF. Source is a 12vdc supply for up to 15 Watts, for 250vac@50Hz. The supply delivers 20Vac witbout any load. What is weird is, my Wattmeter, similar like those killawatt thingies, says the supply consumes 9.04W, without a load! Fishy...


Anyway, when I connect the 20vdc to the driver cirquit, it reads 30 Watts and gets hot quickly, starts to smell. At the secondary coil I get about 2.6 vac at 0.33 A, about 0.9 Watt. When I swap the ends of one of the primaries, voltage on 2nd drops to near zero, so it was ok before.


The Coil is (metric here, sorry) made of a 2.5 mm welding rods bundle about10mm diameter, one layer bifilar enameled copperwire as the primary pair, probably 1.2mm, and ontop of that in series 3 times the lenght of one primary is the secoandary, about 0.3mm wire. This goes over almost the full lenght of the 350mm welding rods.


Windings are a lil imperfect due to the recycled wire and impatience. The Coil is straight, where yours seem to be torroid/donut shaped in the video. Did you bend the welding rods ? Didn't they crumble? Also, i didn't use a copper pipe as the heart of the core, nor did i use a pvc pipe between core and coil, as somebody said the core can be anything.


Attaching the leg of C2 to the secondary didn't make a diffrence. Using a headphone as the load revealed a hum of maybe 100 to 200 hz. Using diffrent Cs does not alter the freq. but rather the presence of subtile harmonics of it.


Disconnecting one of the primaries did not weaken the hum! Disconnecting both did. Reversing ones polarity also did.


It seems to me, my cirquit doesn't work as it's supposed to be. Most headscratching: swapping the npn vs pnp had no impact eighter, same hum as before.


Have to say, because of the supply, being almost shortened and getting hot, I added a 10 Watt 15 Ohm resistor between + and the cirquit. This gave me 2 vdc for the driver, although maybe not enough to run the Qs, the cirquit worked like before, just with a lesser loud hum. This way, consumption went from 9.04 to 11.3. Funny thing, when I added a LED between + and the 10w R, consumption remained at 9.04W, even with the same 2 Watt cirquit active and the Resistor remained cold. There's definitely something wrong with these Wattmeters, when I connected only a series of 3 Leds (each 100mA) and the Resistor, the meter remained at 9.04W, as if there was nothing at all, except the wasteful supply.


On the diagram it looks so simple, but in fact, there are still many questions, like eg. where exactly is the oscillation freq. caused, probably by the mains grids 50 hz???
I will probably try to run this with a sparkgap, since that allows to tune it in a much easier way. I however have yet to find the cause for this driver being able to run "one-handed". There doesn't seem to be such wiping resonance, as it was described. Any thoughts?

Slightly off topic, do you think this would work as the driver? Phase shift not yet added tho:
(EDIT: BTW. when powered by a single source, then 4 Diodes are required, to the caps. Also: 2 additional Diodes may be needed between opposing electrodes of the two Cs, in the same direction as the other two)

WARNING ... This device can kill you even when it is no more connected to the power source!
You have to shorten both Caps before you touch it!



Xenothep, would be nice to get some feedback. I see when you use a sparkgap between two steel discs, the lights get real bright, was that still at 12 Watt, as v*a at the source indicated? may the sparks add "something" to it?

Due to the simplicity, I've made some tests with that sparkgap idea. Results are rather chaotic, but it works. normal diodes may be fried even although supply voltage is below 1kW, backEmf may be high spikes, maybe 2 to 4 kV . Use HV Diodes, eg. made of series of 1kV Diodes. Or, since this is stoneages tech, use a glass of water with an oxidized alu stripe as Diode  ...


Test was ok, 900 Vdc from a 1.5V battery, nice flipfllop sparking, then I reversed one of the bifilars, one strong spark an that was it for the diode.


Have to say, stereo sparkplug timing is hard to adjust, specially in the 500 V range. Thinking about a one gap solution, but not just an on-off sawthooth.


Will build this more precisely, meanwhile trying to find out what's wrong with my implementation of the transistor driver...

dieter,  sounds like you've changed a couple possibly important facets of this device.   It might be best if you could use the same transistors that zenophed suggested.   Also I believe you said you don't have a copper pipe in the middle.   A 1/2" copper pipe can be purchased for very little from a plumbing supply if they will cut you a one or two foot chunk ... they might even give it to you if you explain what it's being used for (free energy research).   Thanks for continuing this work and posting your results.   I'm still planning on getting to this but have a hard time getting to winding coils (coilaphobia ?    ).