The Gabriel Device, possible COP=8

[Mavendex]

@mavendex

Thanks for posting these pictures. Your craftsmanship is impressive.  It's going to be interesting when I post my replication because it's going to be 90% duct tape and superglue!

Anyway, I noticed that the outer steel core in these pictures has a large amount (2"-3"  aka 4.4cm -6.6cm) of steel cut out of the center.  Why is this?   Do you think this will effect the back-EMF canceling effect of the outer shell?  Would it be better to have the shell completely contain the primary?

Did your original device that you made before (with COP=8) have this break in the center of the outer steel toroidal primary?

Thanks,
Feynman

@ Feynman

yes I  cut it out before by 1 inch,  only this time I took a plasma cutter to it  and took out a extra inch. This is why I had L&S retool the tool to make the shell form fitting all the way around, My theory is that if we contain it 100% that we can get a better outcome and less power being used possibly just feeding it from the wall with that Dimmer switch instead of having a resistive load, which will make things even more simple.

I also have a theory that the secondary is just transferring amps from the primary while voltage doesn't drop until you try and take a large amount of amps from the primary if that is the case increasing the flow with the dimmer switch would allow us to keep our OU properties and allow us to recapture even more energy, up to the ampicity of the wire. All the while the energy is being returned to the source with little or no loss.

I do have a question tho if 16 awg wire is rated for 600volts then can I still draw up to its 22 amp capacity without it blowing, IF yes then 1 unit should be able to power a home at peak performance, although the device wouldn't be powering the house directly only taking from the grid and pumping it back with excess while your home would still be running on the grid.

Thus stopping your meter from turning or just turning it backwards and then if you live in a public power state like Nebraska its is Law that they have to pay you the adjusted cost.

Just some ideas
Mav

I hope that makes sense.

[FatBird]

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.

[Feynman]

@ Feynman

yes I  cut it out before by 1 inch,  only this time I took a plasma cutter to it  and took out a extra inch.

Okay, thanks.  But why did you cut it out in the first place?  Sorry I don't understand, maybe try explaining it a different way... Did you cut the primary steel shell with the plasma cutter , so the secondary with wiring would fit inside the primary?    Did you cut it so you'd have wiring access to the inside of the secondary?  I'm don't understand why you cut the primary part out , basically.

This is why I had L&S retool the tool to make the shell form fitting all the way around,

Okay.  Let us know what part we should order from L&S... have you talked to them lately?  I called them about 3 days ago and they didn't seem to remember the part number .  I emailed them pictures but haven't gotten a response yet.

If I call them today or tomorrow, will they sell me the new part?  Or is it better to wait until next week...

My theory is that if we contain it 100% that we can get a better outcome and less power being used possibly just feeding it from the wall with that Dimmer switch instead of having a resistive load, which will make things even more simple.

I like the idea of the dimmer switch too, it gives more control.  Hopefully that works and an inductive heating element is not a requirement for the effect.

I also have a theory that the secondary is just transferring amps from the primary while voltage doesn't drop until you try and take a large amount of amps from the primary if that is the case increasing the flow with the dimmer switch would allow us to keep our OU properties and allow us to recapture even more energy, up to the ampicity of the wire. All the while the energy is being returned to the source with little or no loss.

This is a good idea.  Another to consider is that you might not be able to take out more power than is circulating in the primary or secondary toroid in magnetic flux.  There might be some sort of flux equilibrium that gets disturbed. Also maybe it has something to do with inductive coupling.

I do have a question tho if 16 awg wire is rated for 600volts then can I still draw up to its 22 amp capacity without it blowing, IF yes then 1 unit should be able to power a home at peak performance, although the device wouldn't be powering the house directly only taking from the grid and pumping it back with excess while your home would still be running on the grid.

No idea, though I know from previous experiments with high voltage you need lots of insulation because it arcs really easily.  This was at 6kV with laser power supply....  Maybe someone else can answer this question.

Thus stopping your meter from turning or just turning it backwards and then if you live in a public power state like Nebraska its is Law that they have to pay you the adjusted cost.

I'm sure the power companies will be delighted, haha.  Hey it's only fair with all this contrived concern over 'energy' (oil supplies, nuclear power, etc) that somehow it get solved open-source sometime soon.

[Mavendex]

Okay, thanks.  But why did you cut it out in the first place?  Sorry I don't understand, maybe try explaining it a different way... Did you cut the primary steel shell with the plasma cutter , so the secondary with wiring would fit inside the primary?    Did you cut it so you'd have wiring access to the inside of the secondary?  I'm don't understand why you cut the primary part out , basically.

The original Toroid I had made was for rodin coil experiments, thats why it looks like it does, but for this experiment I needed more room to feed wire on to the primary, the last variation when I cut out 1 inch allowed me to put on extra wire but I still ran out of room, so I took out another inch so we can get the necessary wire placed on to the primary.

As far as L&S I called them and told them to source out the part you will be getting the new piece I had retooled, because this shell isn't optimal. the only nice thing about having such a large gap in the center is it allows the inside parts to breath a bit. but we can do the same with the new part if need be.

[Montec]

Hello Mavendex
As a test you can calculate the value of a capacitor and put it in parallel with the coil. The reactance of the capacitor should remove the reactive power drain portion of the total power measured by the "Kill-O-Watt" meter.

Calculating the value of the capacitor:
Measure the voltage drop across the toaster. Measure the current in the circuit. Calculate power used by toaster P=IV. Subtract the toaster power (P) from the power (S) measured by the "Kill-O-Watt" meter. Whats left is the reactive power (Q) drawn by the coil from the power supply. BTW cosÓ¨ = P/S (Power factor of the circuit )

The reactance (Xc) of the required capacitor is
Xc = V²/Q   V = mains power voltage

C = 1/(ωXc) where ω = 2πf (f = frequency of mains) This should give you an approximate value for a capacitor to try.

Now when you draw power from the second "Kill-O-Watt" meter, the first meter should indicate an increase in power consumption. If it does not then you have a possibility of an over unity device.