free energy via electronic means

[pese]

@wattsup

12v 150mA Bulb ... is less then 2 watts

this will light over month 
(300 to 400 hours with an car battery)

so you cant see any "drop" in 2 hours

[wattsup]

@pese

The system is also lighting a 12v heavy duty vehicule licence plate bulb which is getting pretty hot to the touch.

I will be doing the sam etes without the recharge to see the rate of votalge decline in order to set a baseline for future tests.

Will provide more info as soon as I can.

[Walter Hofmann]

Hi
from my testresults since two years the charger should be set or at least the size of the smalest used battery current in your case it would be at least 4 A or the 10A setting if you use the automatic charger it will protect the batteries from overcharging but you would have the reserve especially if you got appliances on it which turn on and off.
I used a 1,000W inverter two deepcycle batteries with 850 CCAmps and the charger is the same like you but set to 10A. I could put another load on the inverter up to 120V/10A on it Like heavy tools for daily 4 to 6 hours. the batteries needed to be recharged from the grid or in my case from a 100A alternator after about 4 to 6 weeks, because it lost over this time about 2V what is the lowest discharge for the batteries.
I believe with a charger what can give 30A I could even power a 3,000W inverter with about 120V/25 A load on it for a couple hours.
just my two cents
greetings
walt

Hi all and especially to ring_theory.

I decided to try out your design but only had small 12V 7amp batteries and a 12V 4 amp battery which I put all in parallel.

I took a 600W DC/AC converter and also used a large battery charger set at 2 amps, slow charge.

I tried lighting a 110 volts 90 amp flood light and then tried a 100W standard light bulb. In both cases, DC voltage across the batteries went down by 0.01 VDC every 4-5 minutes, which is  impressive in itself. I also tried the same configuration with a 175W DC/AC converter and the result were no different.

But, I then completely removed the 110 volt bulb, and instead, as the photo shows, I put one 12V-150MA bulb plus one 12V vehicle license plate light directly onto the batteries. Both lights have been lighting for the last 2 hours and the voltage across the batteries has remained steady at 12.08 VDC.

Call it what you will, this design is in fact lighting the bulb and is not dropping in voltage. There are no outside connections.

I will look into this further to see up to what DC draw I can take before voltage starts dropping. Also, there is a question of the components I amusing and their inherent inefficiencies. The converter is a low cost unit $50 CDN. The battery charger is a 2 amp, 10 amp and 50 amp selector (for immediate car start) model that must have lots of losses. The license plate bulb is pretty hot to the touch.

But if this design is taken a step further with more streamlined components, I am sure it will work like a charm.

Very simple and interesting.

[ring_theory]

 

[Walter Hofmann]

Hi Terry,
to your first comment: yes it was nessecicary bevause I needed a powersource for my workshop for the tools before I had my permanent wiring in place and I believe 1,000w is pretty much a minimum what people would need.
to the second a grid charge of the batteries cost about $ 2.50 what is about 1/10 of the grid price and the independency.
the third : the wattage can be determined by using a wattmeter no probleme. Just put a adjustable load on it and read the watt meter the easiest is the so called "kille a watt"
the input side is a little bit different but with a ampmeter for up to 100A for current and a DMM for voltage works an then due the math.
Believe me I know the story with marketing and/or investors it is tuff to get anythings going!
I personaly just go with my own money as far as it gets at the time, it takes longer but secures my interest in the product.
I wish you the best of luck
greetings
walt

@Walter Hofmann

The more batteries in the bank the more resistive it is to discharge. I understand your trying to match the wattage of inverter to your needs wattage wise. but is that really nessicary? What your doing by useing a 1000w inverter is creating more of a demand on the battery bank, that the charger has to recover. which means a shorter period of time between grid charges or in your case fuel costs.

If i may suggest droping the inverter wattage and up the # of cells in the battery bank. However if the system you built suits your needs, do nothing. change your configuration and you will get roughly 6 months or 1000 hrs between outside system charges to prevent system failure.

3000w inverter? your insane! you would need atleast 4 times the battery bank.. Hmm 3000w might be enough to feed the grid considering the real peak of the inverter in a system like this will well exceed that.

How do they determine the wattage on the inverters anyways? Hook it to a battery put 1000w drain on it. Oops it kicked off it's a thousand watts. sure a single battery would support the wattage till it's voltage dropped below inverter low voltage peramiters.
The experiment was prematurely interrupted by the batteries inability to support the demand. The key is to not let it get to that point

@ all
I fully intend to encase these units and sell them on ebay to market them as a hybrid electric generator. the goal is to make make money for research and developement of my primary invention SRTT see "fully baked innovation".

To be fully honest i need financial backing for tooling, materials, componants, and research and developement to get started at marketing this system as a hybrid electric generator with several model lines. There is only two ways that will happen #1 if a financial backer steps up or people pre order them. The first models are not going to be cheap to start with. i figure after production gets into full swing and knowing that these units are going to be in high demand. in the automotive market alone i predict a multimillon dollar investment return which is tripe compaired to the multitrillon dollar return on my primary invention.

Ordering info:
The above unit encased with battery bank ready to go upon arrival, single unit $1000 multiple units above 5 units per order $900. Note shipping is not included in unit price.

I will be accepting payment By money order, check, cashiers check, and paypal.
send money orders and checks to

Terry L Hewett Sr
pobox 302
clinton Ia 52733-0302

I will be accepting payment by paypal in most major currencies.
send to terrylhewettsr@yahoo.com via paypal.

contact terrylhewettsr@yahoo.com for more information.