Solid State Bedini Charger - Easy to Build

[supermuble]

Ok, I built a prototype.

I have found that if you are getting a high pitched loud whine coming from the coil, then you are using current. The louder the whine, the more current. You can take a 1 ohm resistor and place it across your leads. With a 1 ohm resistor on the charging output wire, you should see the voltage drop to a level that is less than 1 volt. This is per Bedini's recommendation. He might have changed his methods since this information was presented though.

My circuit puts out about 95% of the power that is inputted. I am only losing about 5% of the energy through heating the coil windings, the transistors get slightly warm, and there are other various losses. I am using black sand and expoxy for the core and a trifilar winding as well. The over unity comes from the batteries, at least that is what is supposed to happen, if you have good batteries. These chargers will boil a battery in about 5 or 10 minutes once it is fully charged and you hook it up. I have less about somewhere between 0.25 and 1.00 ohms resistance across the coil windings - they are hooked in paralell with 3 TIP3055 transistors. I'm only getting 150 volts regardless of the current input. But this charges about 100 times better than a tiny coil putting out 400 volts. Using thicker wire charges must faster, even with less voltage. With this charger, I also charged 4 AA batteries.

[jadaro2600]

Terrorists beware!~



Now, what exactly is a Bedini machine anyway -I've hear these rumor's that the machine is a hoax.

[jas_bir77]

can you post the scamatics so that we can try this circuit.
what is your input vs. output in terms of cop.
who’s  circuit is it anyway.
thanks in advance.

Ok, I built a prototype.

I have found that if you are getting a high pitched loud whine coming from the coil, then you are using current. The louder the whine, the more current. You can take a 1 ohm resistor and place it across your leads. With a 1 ohm resistor on the charging output wire, you should see the voltage drop to a level that is less than 1 volt. This is per Bedini's recommendation. He might have changed his methods since this information was presented though.

My circuit puts out about 95% of the power that is inputted. I am only losing about 5% of the energy through heating the coil windings, the transistors get slightly warm, and there are other various losses. I am using black sand and expoxy for the core and a trifilar winding as well. The over unity comes from the batteries, at least that is what is supposed to happen, if you have good batteries. These chargers will boil a battery in about 5 or 10 minutes once it is fully charged and you hook it up. I have less about somewhere between 0.25 and 1.00 ohms resistance across the coil windings - they are hooked in paralell with 3 TIP3055 transistors. I'm only getting 150 volts regardless of the current input. But this charges about 100 times better than a tiny coil putting out 400 volts. Using thicker wire charges must faster, even with less voltage. With this charger, I also charged 4 AA batteries.

[SteveOll]

Hmmm, not tried the 1 ohm resistor yet, but I had the setup 'charging' for 24 hrs and then I hooked up the 'charged' battery to a 300W inverter. Unfortunately it seems that there is only a surface charge applied to the battery as it would not power an 8W device and the inverter low battery alarm came on and checking the battery voltage it was 10.4 volts.

I'm not sure if I'm doing something wrong, or do I need to keep trying to charge with the bedini, or do I need to try charging with a traditional charger inbetween using the bedini?

[supermuble]

I call radiant chargers "Bedini" chargers, since John Bedini has studied this type of charging more than any other public figure that i know of.

Radiant charging, or Bedini charging, is simply high voltage, low current charging. The energy comes from the collapsing magnetic field in a given coil of wire. When a coil collapses, you get something called "flyback voltage" which is not the same as "back EMF" Back EMF carries current, which is in opposition to the applied current. Flyback voltage is very quick and reaches very high voltages.

Back EMF will occur when you gradually reduce the magnetic flux in a given coil of wire. Flyback voltage occurs when you "rapidly" switch off the magnetic field in a given inductor coil. Rapid switching can damage to sensitive components since rapid DC voltages in inductors causes high flyback voltages to be created in a given inductor (coil of wire). You can use flyback voltage to charge batteries. This is called "radiant charging." Radiant charging has very high voltage, but low current, so you cannot damage your batteries by overheating them, or overcharging them. High voltage tends to desulphate the battery, even when the battery is tested and found to be defective. Flyback voltage charges a battery, regardless of the internal resistance of the battery. If the battery is old and crusty, the flyback voltage doesn't care, it sends the same high voltage into the battery and forces it to charge.

I am NOT an expert on radiant charging and have very little experience. So as to why it works so good for charging batteries, I won't try to go into anymore detail. The schematic I used is shown at the link above in this post.