Self-Runner NS Coil Pulse Motor Live Video Stream. It's been going for months!

[Rosemary Ainslie]

Mix the filings with epoxy in a thick paste and fill the pipe up. That will work fine as a core.
You can also use a long bolt for the core. Any type of soft (mild) steel will do. Just wrap it real good with electrical tape before you start to wind.

Ted

Hi Ted.  Thanks for this.  And really nice to see you around. The 'bolt' is a really good idea.  I think I'll try both as I might have a suitable one.

If the pipe is already covered with something - which it is - wouldn't that be enough?  Or is insulation still required?  I guess I'd need to find out what it's coated with first.  I'm just not sure how 'proximate' the metals need to be.  This is an entirely new departure from my usual studies.  I certainly intend taking off the coating off the copper.  If this is a no no - please advise.

Kindest as ever,
Rosemary

[Rosemary Ainslie]

Guys - this is the best I could do to explain the proposed layout of the pipe against the rotor.  I'll see if it downloads and amend or explain as required.

OK.  I sort of took.  the labels are Coil - magnets postitioned as required - reed switch - possible boosters for the coil.

Hope that's self explanatory.  The neat thing is that I can position magnets on that rotor in just about any position - up to and including covering the entire circle.  The down side is that I can only fit ferrite magnets and they may not be strong enough.  But it'll be interesting. 

Regards,
Rosemary

edited BTW - The idea is to see if the rotation needs to be generated with the rotor at 90 degrees or 180 degrees to the coil.  With this rig I can adjust that positioning.  Also.  I want to find out if a solid line of magnets adds or substracts from the 'spin'.  Then too - I want to see if the secondary will assist if it's partially or completely wound with copper or copper and iron or iron - or any variation thereof.  At least there may be a few more answers here - that's if it works at all.  LOL

[Pirate88179]

@ All:

Just remember that, from what we have learned on the NS and JT topics that "soft" iron is not related to its hardness.  It speaks to it's permeability or the ability to be magnetized one moment, and then not the next.

For the JT topic, we decided to go with cores that had very high permeability and these seemed to work very well.

I just wanted to point this out.

Bill

[Rosemary Ainslie]

@ All:

Just remember that, from what we have learned on the NS and JT topics that "soft" iron is not related to its hardness.  It speaks to it's permeability or the ability to be magnetized one moment, and then not the next.

For the JT topic, we decided to go with cores that had very high permeability and these seemed to work very well.

I just wanted to point this out.

Bill

Hi Bill.  Thanks for the reminder.  I'm hoping that what I've got here is reasonably 'magnetisable' - if that's the concern - as we've tested it on Dave Lambright's rig.  Is that epoxy filing mix likely to work? Or will it be too weak to do what's required? 

And PLEASE could you give advice as to the proposed stripping of the copper to leave the thread bare?  Is this wise?  Or should I leave it with it's coating?

BTW What is it coated with?  It seems to be a kind of plastic?

Kindest as ever,
Rosie

edited
and spelling

[Pirate88179]

Rose:

I call it plastic because the mag wire I bought said it had a polyurethane coating.  Now, Don says his mag wire has enamel coating, which is probably true.  As far as Ominbus's questions, no matter the coating, this "should not work" unless it is bare wire.  But, it does.

As I have said before from my personal experiments and studies,  I believe there is a galvanic component to this BUT, I also believe there is something more. What that is I can't really say but from everyone's experiments I am confident in my opinion here.

The more folks working with this and posting their results, the more we will all learn what is, and what is not.

Bill