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Friction heater running in my house

Started by oilpiggy, October 31, 2012, 02:25:24 PM

Previous topic - Next topic

0 Members and 2 Guests are viewing this topic.

mscoffman

I am interested in this design but I am waiting until I get some free turning energy. My feeling is that how the viscosity of the
working fluid changes over time is a very sensitive critical factor in the temperature rise. You would need a frequency controller
hooked to computer to do these type of tests as well a fluid style temperature measurement. Also a 240 ct 120Volt power
transformer could act as an automatic transmission.

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Heatpumps have resistance heaters that come on if outdoor temperatures drop too low and this application would ideal for this as
the duty cycle of operation would generally be quite low.

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Keep up the good work as people, including me, are interested in this.


:S:MarkSCoffman

SkyWatcher123

Hi folks, so I have been giving this some thought and I have an idea as to why the Kelly book chapter 14 design, is not increasing much in rate of heating, when steel disks are added and of course more oil is added to accommodate the additional disks.
I think much of the oil is being centrifugally pushed towards the cylinder walls and this means the oil is barely making contact with the rotating steel disks.
However, in oilpiggy's design, with the stationary intervening steel plates, i think a pressure is built between them and the oil stays in shear contact with the rotating disks.
Also, heat is gained from the shear of the stationary plates as well.
So I think this is the problem with my build, the oil is being allowed to be pushed to the periphery of the disks and only the edges of the disks are making shear contact with the oil.
With the last build i made with my makeshift stationary plates, I did observe the oil rising up through the gap around the drive shaft and resulting low heat production.
So, what i feel needs to be tried, is a plate mounted lower in the cylinder and the 3 disks will be below this filled full with oil and somehow seal the shaft from that chamber so all of the oil stays within that chamber.
I think the pressure that is built up, will help heating as well.
At this moment, i am not aware of how to seal the shaft, though i assume these must exist or something can be made, I'll have to research how to seal the shaft.
peace love light
 

oilpiggy

Thank you, I don't plan on stopping anytime soon. I have many more ideas to implement into this system, like a pulsed magnet motor.
I am building one with a water jacket around the out side of the body for a heat exchanger or heated flooring. The clear model will be for demonstrations for people to see how it works and to clear up the fact that there is NO cavitation in the system.
@ skywatcher ,  I will try to come up with some ideas for people to make this common garage tools.

Give me a list of tools that I would have to work with and I will see what I can come up with.

Thank you
Gabriel Peterson / on YouTube Oilpiggy
Email: Frictionheater@hotmail.com 

SkyWatcher123

Hi oilpiggy, thanks for the quick reply and your willingness to help people, including me, try and build this with more common means or tools.
Well, i have a small drill press, though that is not available at the moment, because i'm using the motor for this project, hehe.
Though i have Drills, sheet metal cutters, jig saw, p.c. cad for templates and most other common tools.
What do you think about my thoughts on why my build isn't heating very quickly, the idea of the oil being pushed away from making contact with disks, thanks. :o ;)
Your willingness to help, is impressive oilpiggy, thanks. :)
peace love light

SkyWatcher123

Hi folks, Hi oilpiggy, this is to show what is happening with the oil fluid flow.
It is as i suspected, the oil is being almost completely flung away in all directions from the disk.
Oh, this test was using an abrasive circular saw blade 6-1/2" diameter and it worked just the same as the steel disks.
I took the picture through a small peek hole above cylinder, as can be seen, hardly any oil is making contact with the disk itself, only the periphery of the disk is making contact with oil and it is mainly making contact with aluminum cylinder inner walls.
And the oil is spinning rather slowly at that, around the inner aluminum cylinder wall.
All this explains to me why the heating rate is so slow and also why adding more disks is barely noticeable as far as heating rate and max. temperature.
Max. temp. was 188F. for this test.
Your thoughts appreciated oilpiggy and anyone else having thoughts on this.
peace love light