Friction heater running in my house

[SkyWatcher123]

Hi folks, tested with the static plate setup today.
Since i did not seal the edges of the plate, oil was flowing from the edges and back down into the center hole.
I also did not have enough oil on hand to fill high enough, so the disk was an inch away from the static steel plate.
The heat up rate was a little bit improved.
So, i sealed the edges of static plate and i will test that tomorrow and when i get more oil, will test that also.
peace love light

[SkyWatcher123]

Hi folks, i abandoned further tests with my makeshift static plate idea, i came to the conclusion, the only way to do that kind of setup, oilpiggy's design, is to machine it properly.
So, i disassembled and patched holes and am back to just rotating disks.
However, my thought was, that if i placed each disk further apart.
So that it catches the rising oil, to further increase the oils rotation speed and it pulls the oil up even higher along the aluminum inner walls.
This causes more rapid heat up and raises max. temperature.
So i tested this today, using as the first bottom disk, the aluminum oxide abrasive saw blade.
Then spaced apart another steel disk with a gap of around 1-1/4".
This second disk did grab the oil and raise it higher and appeared to be rotating oil a little quicker.
The results were much improved rate of heating, from 68 F. up to 160 F., it was climbing at a rate between 5-6 degrees per minute.
This then tapered off at 160 F. and it took almost an hour from that point to reach 200 F.
So, i plan to add another disk, etc. and see how the results change.
It should be noted, that the way this is working is different from Kelly's design in chapter 14.
Because in Kelly's design, they fill almost full the entire cylinder, where as this setup is pulling much less oil upward along the inner walls using less rotating disks.
Average power input was 272 watts on killiwatt meter.
All comments and questions welcome.
peace love light

[Pirate88179]

Hi folks, i abandoned further tests with my makeshift static plate idea, i came to the conclusion, the only way to do that kind of setup, oilpiggy's design, is to machine it properly.
So, i disassembled and patched holes and am back to just rotating disks.
However, my thought was, that if i placed each disk further apart.
So that it catches the rising oil, to further increase the oils rotation speed and it pulls the oil up even higher along the aluminum inner walls.
This causes more rapid heat up and raises max. temperature.
So i tested this today, using as the first bottom disk, the aluminum oxide abrasive saw blade.
Then spaced apart another steel disk with a gap of around 1-1/4".
This second disk did grab the oil and raise it higher and appeared to be rotating oil a little quicker.
The results were much improved rate of heating, from 68 F. up to 160 F., it was climbing at a rate between 5-6 degrees per minute.
This then tapered off at 160 F. and it took almost an hour from that point to reach 200 F.
So, i plan to add another disk, etc. and see how the results change.
It should be noted, that the way this is working is different from Kelly's design in chapter 14.
Because in Kelly's design, they fill almost full the entire cylinder, where as this setup is pulling much less oil upward along the inner walls using less rotating disks.
Average power input was 272 watts on killiwatt meter.
All comments and questions welcome.
peace love light

Skywatcher:

Have you checked and compared the amp draw on your motor during these experiments?  What I mean to say is...if you are getting more heating, does this show up as a higher drag on your motor's energy input?  I suspect that it might but am not sure.  I see that you say 272 watts on the killawatt meter for this run, but how does that compare to previous runs with less heating?

If you have stated this before and I missed it, I apologize.

Nice work.

Bill

[SkyWatcher123]

Hi pirate, the last similar test was with the same 2 disks, though they were only spaced 1/4" apart gap.
That previous test drew 250 watts average on killiwatt meter and only reached 188 F. and the heat rate was much slower overall.
I'm getting a couple more of the aluminum oxide saw blades, so will be testing with at least 3 or more disks and compare results.
The amount of oil and how deep the first disk is set into the oil seems to play a role and keep in mind these aluminum oxide disks are insulators of electricity.
All heat is being generated, i think, from oil contacting inner walls of outer aluminum cylinder.
If these further disk tests do not show improved heat up rate above 160 F., i may wrap aluminum sheet around 2 of the disks and use it as a rotating drum and this should run much truer than i can manage with a paint can.
peace love light

[SkyWatcher123]

Hi folks, well this is not exactly similar to oilpiggy's design, though i thought i would share what i will be testing tomorrow.
Besides, if it works well, it is a good alternative to building a drum style heater that anyone can build and it should run very true.
It is built using almost a full roll of aluminum roof flashing cut to size with tin snips.
Each end has a disk, it seems hardware stores don't carry the 6-12" aluminum oxide saw blades anymore, so i used the one i had and the other end has a steel disk i made.
I aluminum taped it together, then riveted it solid and used high temp sealant to hold  and seal it together.
The sealant may not be good for long term use, though if it works well, it can be jb welded later.
Questions and comments welcome.
peace love light