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Overunity Machines Forum



Self Running Micro TPU, with closed loop.

Started by EMdevices, November 12, 2007, 11:49:58 PM

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plengo

#395
December 08, 2007, 10:57:34 PM
@4Tesla
thanks for asking. It let it ran the 7 or more days. The LED was lit. Voltage accross the it was 1.6+ and current was .2ma. I concluded that the battery is the main factor. It will hold a 1 volt no matter what one do to it (despite someone destroys it with fire or something like that).

On my second version I tried if it could stack up in quantity so that I could have, lets say, 3 bats with 1 volt either so I should have a constant voltage of at least 3 volts plus the current. I also tried some in parallel and they also stack up pretty good. SO, now I am trying many in series and in parallel and they produce a very very steady voltage and current and it does not matter what I do with this babies.

Now, my next step it to reproduce the 4 tesla switch with this setup and see If I can run a bigger load with less batteries. I think there is something here. Is it worthy to open a new thread just for this? I posted some videos at youtube and another guys emailed me saying he did pretty much the same experiment and He also had his LED running for more than a week (no longer because, like me, he got tired and dismantled the thing to go furher). This guys was using a  4 testa swtich and thats where some ideas came from.

I bought some 25 more of this NIMH to see how much can I stack and may be use them as a input source for my Bedini SSG to charge real bigger batteries to run real big things!!!

Can someone come up with a circuit that will pulse at a certain choosen frequency 90/10% duty cycle but at each pulse really switch 4 "relays"? and this has to run at about 20ma max 3v max.

BTW, resting those "killed/dead" batteries will recharge them back to a 3+volts no matter what. Real usable energy. I can see this approach to run this mini TPU forever!!!

Fausto.

Pirate88179

#396
December 08, 2007, 11:32:57 PM
@ btentzer:

3 AA bats have 4.5 vdc and you put 9 vdc into the LEDs.  This might explain why they went poof.  there is also probably some circuitry involved that might limit power to the LEDs in the light saber configuration.  I was testing one of my bright LEDs from my earth battery experiments (see topic) and yes, I used a 9 volt bat.  Guess what?  I fried it!!!!  It was a shame as it was the brightest one I had. (sigh)  I am not an electronics wiz but my guess is that was too much for them.

Bill
See the Joule thief Circuit Diagrams, etc. topic here:
http://www.overunity.com/index.php?topic=6942.0;topicseen

Bruce_TPU

#397
December 08, 2007, 11:43:29 PM
Hi Bill,

I had thought of that, but the only problem with that, is this same 9 volt has no problem with 1 LED, or 2, or 8 (8 is the most I have tried.)  But give it a stack of 21, and it blinked for a while, but I was not timing it, and had removed a blinking LED to plug in the stack.  Touched the 9 volt and POOF!  LOL

@ All
Right now I have hooked two leads of my second set of control coils to an earphone.  Everytime, the LED lights, you can hear the audible click.  It is like an electronic heartbeat.  Just a weird thing I wanted to try.  I told the wife it was a toroid stethescope!  LOL   ;D  Woman, they will believe anything!  ;)

Right now I am testing with it.

Holiday Cheers,
Bruce
1.  Lindsay's Stack TPU Posted Picture.  All Wound CCW  Collectors three turns and HORIZONTAL, not vertical.

2.  3 Tube amps, sending three frequency's, each having two signals, one in-phase & one inverted 180 deg, opposing signals in each collector (via control wires). 

3.  Collector is Magnetic Loop Antenna, made of lamp chord wire, wound flat.  Inside loop is antenna, outside loop is for output.  First collector is tuned via tuned tank, to the fundamental.  Second collector is tuned tank to the second harmonic (component).  Third collector is tuned tank to the third harmonic (component)  Frequency is determined by taking the circumference frequency, reducing the size by .88 inches.  Divide this frequency by 1000, and you have your second harmonic.  Divide this by 2 and you have your fundamental.  Multiply that by 3 and you have your third harmonic component.  Tune the collectors to each of these.  Input the fundamental and two modulation frequencies, made to create replicas of the fundamental, second harmonic and the third.

4.  The three frequency's circulating in the collectors, both in phase and inverted, begin to create hundreds of thousands of created frequency's, via intermodulation, that subtract to the fundamental and its harmonics.  This is called "Catalyst".

5.  The three AC PURE sine signals, travel through the amplification stage, Nonlinear, producing the second harmonic and third.  (distortion)

6.  These signals then travel the control coils, are rectified by a full wave bridge, and then sent into the output outer loop as all positive pulsed DC.  This then becomes the output and "collects" the current.

P.S.  The Kicks are harmonic distortion with passive intermodulation.  Can't see it without a spectrum analyzer, normally unless trained to see it on a scope.

4Tesla

#398
December 09, 2007, 12:22:57 AM
@btentzer
LOL  :)

@plengo
I recommend using a 555 timer IC for your DC pulse or use this simple circuit and tap off the collector of the transistor:
http://wild-bohemian.com/electronics/flasher.html

4Tesla

sanmankl

#399
December 09, 2007, 12:30:11 AM
Quote from: btentzer on December 08, 2007, 03:32:08 PM
Hey guys,

No I haven't tried this on two separate cores yet.  That will be for another day.

I had my circuit, as shown in the schematic several posts back, except I wound over the bottom windings with two top windings.  Each winding having two ends.  I then hooked the ends, crossing in the middle with two IN002 diodes.  NONE of the new winding wires were attached anywhere on the circuit.  Circuit runs fine, but no extra time gained.  I reversed one of the diodes, and the LED would not light.  I then removed the diode, and the LED starts to blink, without the cap needing to be recharged.  Somehow, the second windings stopped the flow of current in the windings underneath.

On a side note, my son's light sabre broke beyond repair this morning.  I slid out the 21 LED stack and plugged it into the circuit,  ;D all 21 blinked away, with no power hookup.  I went to recharge the system and time it and when I touched my leads to the battery, some of the LED's glowed then smoked.  Yet one LED is fine.  Any thoughts on why a stack of 21 would possibly have some fry when 9volt is touched?

Holiday Cheers,
Bruce

@Bruce,

Which schematic are you referring to? There's a few running around. Can you give me the link or repost?

I'm also like you, stuck at 33m (best time, with an all CU coil). What kind of mod did you do?

Thanks and happy holidays. sanmankl
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