The Tesla Project

[barbosi]

1. Now, if there was just that missed wire then the schematic is like in fig.1 (added the blue wire).

2. Because the switch was OFF the equivalent schematic is like in fig.2.

3. Since apparently the batteries are not needed any more, we may consider these were needed just to start the process and [after they are recharged], we can take them out from the schematic like in fig.3

4. Only for cleaning purposes we can reconsider fig.3 going into fig.4.

And now let's recap: from the original schematic was omitted the blue wire and after an initial kick were it was used the battery, the working circuit is as in fig.4.
According the accepted electricity science, we can agree it still not makes aby sense. And out of question to chalenge anyone's statement here. Just pointing out that we may drop this too soon without understanding the whole. Or maybe I'm missing something...?...

Regards.

[clone477]

Wattsup,
I have tried putting a coil around the spark gap I was using, and sure enough there was a huge spike of voltage from the coil.  Im at the limit of my meter at this point, I cant read any higher than 100volts.  The high voltage probes I see on Ebay, will they work with any meter, and is that the  best way for me to read these high voltages?? 

I have tried using a commutator from a motor as the switching device.  I simply cut off from the windings back, and soldered the wires of each section of commutators 180 degrees to the other commutator.  I was not geeting the same output on my sparkgap??  So I figured maybe the brushes were wider than one commutator strip, and therefore the circuit was never getting shut off for the correct 50%-50% duty cycle.  So I decided to double up the commutator bars.  I soldered two for ON, and the next two for OFF.  This would give me less cycles per revolution.  This did not seem to work well either, my spark gap was not arking.    BUT as soon as a disconnected the commutator, and just tapped the two connects with my test lead, my spark gap would fire no problem.  So for some reason I dont understand, that idea did not work for me as much as I thought it should of.

So I have now build this for the controller to attach to my motor.  I have used two ABS reluctor rings from a car with ABS brakes.  There are perfectly spaced, and will provide a 50% off on cycle.  Also there are 54 teeth on the one that is not modified, and on the other I cut off every other tooth, so I would have 27. Spinning this in my electric drill at certain speeds, probably lower harmonic of the discharge circuit, I am able to have the spark gap fire almost conitually.  Tomarrow I plan on filling all the gaps of the rings with fiberglass resin, the bring the ring to my macinist to have a perfectly smooth serface for my brushed to run along.  Here are some pictures.

I have also ordered flat copper strapping to wind my primary of my transformer.  I want to get this all tuned and in resonance.  Because if Im getting this output with the whole system not even tuned, I cant imagine what it would produced tuned. 

After my primary inductance is determined, then I can figure out how many RPM's the motor will have to spin, the size of my primary cap, and finally the 1/4 wave and capacitance of my secondary.  Once this is work, I plan on building a Tesla's bifiar coil for the secondary to combine the cap and windings. 

Is there any problem at all feeding this HV and HF back to our source/batteries??  Does this damage the batteries, should be downconvert this for that purpose??  With the system running there are huge spikes going back to the battery, I know this from hooking my volt meter and osiliscope to the battery.  So I know the source is being feed back power while the whole system is running.  I still havent decided what to do with the seconday out, I know Tesla ran motors, lights, ect.  But ideally I would like to have this go back to the source, for my electric car application it would put use to al that extra output. 

[clone477]

Had to resize the pics....

[wattsup]

@clone477

Regarding your commutator, I have posted a photo here on one I made and it works when coupled to another motor, but I think the choice of the commutator size is relative to the actual specs of the motor you are taking it from, hence the overall resistance of the commutator and the brush wires. This particular motor is pretty robust 90vdc-6000 rpm. There is no amperage rating or hp rating on it but I would easily give it  2 amps rating, easy, so at least this commutator can pass a good 180 watts without creating any undue resistance. The photo is here;
http://www.overunity.com/index.php/topic,5144.msg119281.html#msg119281

Regarding the coil around the spark gap, this is great news because it touches upon something I posted on another thread regarding producing RE and having is spin inside a dual layer coil. lol I will have to try it myself to see.

But in general, if you look higher up on this thread page, I put a photo of a set-up using my pulse wheel, photo PW-Test2-Cb.jpg, and you will see behind the volt meter showing 25.46 vdc, the meter is leaning on a big capacitor that is 1200 volts 88mf that I bought on ebay for 20 bucks. This is the capacitor I always use as an energy grabbing tank by simply passing the output positive through a diode then to the capacitor. This will enable you to see a regulated voltage rise from your spikes.

So imagine if the primary/secondary is producing output and you can also add any collected output from the spark gap all this will add to the overall output. Hmmmmm. Also, a coil on the spark gap could be a feedback signal to reset a pulsing circuit or fed back into the primary of the spark gap producing coil itself as a loop.

@barbosi

Thanks for all those diagram mods.

I finally figured out that there was another wire going from the battery positive side to the capacitor positive, hence the lamp was connected direct to the the battery and parallel to the capacitor and the rest of the circuit.

But get this. I recharged my two batteries back up to a total of 34 volts dc. I removed everything from the battery terminals and connected the lamp directly to the battery. The battery voltage started going down about .1 volts every 12-15 seconds, the lamp was warm to the touch as before. But before, when the circuit was connected (and also add a wire from battery positive to capacitor) the voltage stayed there for hours. This is surely something very weird and this was why I wanted to post the diagram. But then I did not realize those two wires were there. Geez.

I know from experience that the diode from the secondary coils is a very high voltage one at is does leak backwards since I have seen voltage drop off my cap tank, but I cannot figure out why this effect is happenning. I wil have to do some more tests with this.

[clone477]

Wattsup and all,
After you pointing out your thread about using an armature for the controller, it did seem like a much better idea, it is deisned to tranfer electricity.  So I made another controller out of the same motor I am using, an extra one of course.  What I did was removed the commutator from the spare motor, and pressed it on my original motor that is powered by the batteries.  Then my driving motor and controller are all on the same shaft.  Nice and compact.  I will attach pics.  My problem is that it heats up very quick while operating.   Maybe 2 minutes worth of run time, thats not right.  Second, it drains the batter quickly. 

I have a couple things I wanted to ask,

1. My motor is a 120volt AC motor, but have the same wiring configuration as Teslas Ozone patent, is this a problem if I run it at 120VDC???  I didnt think so??

2.  In the oringal motor before disassembly, it had a bearing on one side and a bushing on the other.  Since I essencialy attached two motors together, I used both bushing supports and did not use the bearings to support the shafts, maybe causing to much friction??

3.  My controller commutator is turning black, from overheating, and the whole room begins to smell after 1/2hour of testing, could it be drawing to much current, Maybe to much resistance from the choking coil??  I didnt measure to check??

4.  Lastly the controller when running at 120volts worth of DC batteries, spins very quickly(which is normal with the higher voltage) but arcs very bad,  you see lines of electricity around the controller(commuator), is this normal. 


I thought this setup was perfect, but it does not work good.  I going to try this once more using this motor setup.  Ill go buy two more motors tomarrow, and instead of disassembling them all, I will just thread the end shafts and join them with a extended nut.  This way I could eliminate all the bearsin causing excess friction. 

I trulely think a relay beging fed by a reluctor rind and sensor is the best way to do this, it makes a good contact everytime.  I dont know at this point??  Any suggestions from anyone.  Any suggestion on how to make a good working model, I mean wi already know Tesla's Ozone Patent works great.

Thanks guys Fern