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aluminum can and copper wire batterys

Started by old man, June 24, 2010, 04:33:10 PM

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0 Members and 5 Guests are viewing this topic.

PeteIdl4

Hello everyone,

I'm just wrapping up a few tests on two cells I made about about 3 days ago, today would be the fourth day. They have been running a joule thief continuously with a white Led. So far they do not show any signs of losing power. I have not added more electrolyte than what I initially started them with which is a small mixture of water, salt, and  sodium bicarbonate. I will be making a video tutorial on these today if anybody is interested in testing them out for themselves. I have a few pictures to leave you guys with showing the cells in action. Thanks to everyone for sharing and keep up the good work.

-Pete

Mk1


the_big_m_in_ok

Quote from: old man on June 26, 2010, 06:33:44 PM
lee
i hate to be dumn but what does What ohmic value of resistor  mine i dont no
The ohmic value is the resistance value of the resistor in ohms.

http://www.csgnetwork.com/resistcolcalc.html

This is probably for American industry standard resistors.  A typical carbon film high value resistor "resists" electricity and allows a battery or capacitor to drain more slowly.

http://www.electronics-tutorials.ws/resistor/res_1.html




So, the real reason I'm writing is to say I'm building water batteries differently because the electrodes rust or corrode way too quickly to be useful making them from wire for copper, for instance.

I "invented" this last night:

1) Take a commonly available American 15-16 oz. steel can and a small-diameter 8.4-12 oz. "red Bull energy drink can made of aluminum.
(The aluminum can has to fit inside the steel can.  This is the easiest way to manage this construction.)

2) With a pointed tip razor blade or very sharp knife, scratch a groove hard into the inside of the steel can and the outside of the aluminum can about 10 times; that's all.
(This will expose metal in the cans to the electrolyte through the outside paint or inside safety coating if the cans.  They're conductive now.)

3) Find a polyethylene "Wal-Mart" shopping bag from a past shopping trip.  Flatten the bag against the top of the steel can and then take the pointed razor or knife and stab the inside top of the can about 9-10 times all the way around the inside circumference of the can.

4) Now that you have a circle of 2-sheet polythene discs, tear them out of the hole you made with your fingers and then shove them flat to the bottom of the steel can.  You might need a pencil to arrange them neatly.  Repeat the operation at least 10-15 times or until the bag is too full of holes to continue.
(With 20-30 sheets of plastic discs in the bottom of the can, they will insulate both cans from each other after you pour in the electrolyte.)

5) Take a piece of standard 8 1/2 X 11" sheet of scrap of paper (computer printout scrap is perfect), and cut 10 strips about 1" wide out of it, using the whole thing.  Take 5 of these stacked on each other and roll up one end like you do to an empty tube of toothpaste.  With Scotch tape, tape the end down to keep the roll from unraveling.  You'll need at least 3 of these.

6) Shove the rolled up paper "shims", spaced 120 deg. apart, between the cans to force the aluminum can to remain centered inside the steel can.
(This will keep the electrodes apart and not ground out the cell.)

7) Fill the cans with your electrolyte of choice.  Whatever you favorite is.  I use water,  since it's free.  Lastly, connect the cells together with alligator clip jumper leads from Radio Shack.
(This should be your only cost and they're reusable.)
NOTE:
Steel rusts and aluminum corrodes, so this whole system should be as inexpensive as possible.  Narrow aluminum cans are available on the streets of all large American cities, or you can buy the drinks and consume the contents.  Steel cans are also on the streets or you can buy soup/fruit/etc. cans and reuse them.

I don't have a  camera or graphics software to better describe all this in pictures or on YouTube.  Sorry.

Be aware: 
This is legally the Internet, so my instructions are:  In.  The.  Public.  Domain.
(The date and time of entry is at the top of this post.  That may actually be why it's there--legal protection for the software engineering company who wrote this program.)

--Lee
"Truth comes from wisdom and wisdom comes from experience."
--Valdemar Valerian from the Matrix book series

I'm merely a theoretical electronics engineer/technician for now, since I have no extra money for experimentation, but I was a professional electronics/computer technician in the past.
As a result, I have a lot of ideas, but no hard test results to back them up---for now.  That could change if I get a job locally in the Bay Area of California.

old man

lee

that should work grate let us no how it work for you


mk1

that looks funney to me when you fine more let us no and thank for the info


PeteIdl4

that looka good cant wate for the vido


i am still reading the jf post all most done i have been reading now for 12 hours i got a lot idais for these cans  almost done with my teasting


thank agin for all the help


tom

PeteIdl4

Hello Everyone,
Sorry for the late post I got held up with a few other matters. None the less I have the promised video tutorial up on youtube, here are the links:

Part 1 http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=B9YqFY-Z0dk

Part 2 http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZeQof7ue9xA

These cells have held up very well running a joule thief with a white LED for 4 consecutive days with no added water/electrolyte, and no noticeable change in power. Better performance than what I expected.

P.S. sorry for the audio in the videos my cam is still giving me some problems.

-Pete