Ive been playing with the circuit guys and made some discoveries.  I used a automotive ignition coil for primary and secondary, and it works well.  On the out put of the secondary I used a adjustable spark tester used in automotive.  I put my volt meter on my postive and negitive terminals of my battery.  With the spark tester adjusted I was able to feed 2000volt pulses back to the battery.  So this circuit for sure provides energy from the secondary to be used, runs an electric motor, and lastly recharges the source/powers the motor.  This has all been comfirmed, Thanks for all for bringing this circuit to light, Tesla was truely a genious.  Fern

@wattsup

QuoteI set-up my new pulser wheel with one of my toroidal transformers. Since my switch is a SPDT, I used it to simply take the 24 volts from my two batteries and pulse them alternatively into the transformer, then pass the secondary through a diode to my biggest holding capacitor, then through another diode back to the positive of the battery. I also put a 120vac 100w light bulb parallel to the cap.
I pressed theo start button and the wheel turned for about 10 seconds and voltage went up to 68 volts on the cap. I then switched the light bulb on and voltage went down to around 25 volts. I then switched the start button to off and stopped the wheel. But it has been that way for four hours now and voltage on the battery had not gone down. I know for a fact that my system never did this before. The light is lit as shown below and it is hot to the touch. You cannot hold it for more then a second.
When I stopped the system, the wheel was pushing in the switch so the NO is connected to Common. Just leaving it alone like this and I cannot figure out why the battery voltage is not going down or at least, why. Plus the start button is at the off position. Shit.

Hey, did you figure out what was going on in your circuit?

       When testing electric motor field coils we use a highfrequency generator.  This increases the turn to turn voltage potential just like Tesla demonstrates in his coil capacitor. Any insulation problems betweem turns results in a short and burns the bad coil.  Increase in voltage as a result of increase in frequency.  Now if this coil was geometrically configured like Tesla's bifilar pancake the whole surface area of the copper becomes a capacitor whose plates are the bifilar element turns, and air the electrolyte.  The advantage to this capacitor is that it charges as a consequence of the through current on a pulse from the oscillator.  Something like shorting a capacitor and still having it charge.

@AC and @gotoluc (thanks gotoluc for your PM)

OK I found there was one wire I did not see with all the wires on the bench, that went directly form the negative of the battery to the negative side of the capacitor. The voltage started going down on the battery about 6  hours after I started and by the next morning was down to 22 volts off the two batteries.

This is what caused the light to light but I still cannot explain why the voltage went down so slowly. I did retry this time, recharge the batteries and just put the light directly on the batteries. The light lit the same way but voltage went down very quickly. I will have to do some more study on this plus I am making plans to add some more induction off the SPDP switch.  I want more punch at each pulse.

The switching wheel is working great. I will add another switch onto the wheel to increase pulse rates or to pulse another part of the circuit.

I do not know if there is anything yet to jump up. I may have jumped to fast but geez, when you see something so out of the ordinary, then you look and look and cannot explain, why.

@clone477

Good work. I know I am sometimes a pain in the ass when others post their devices and I ask them to try something. It is because you already have the setup in place and learning more on it is the name of the game. I asked @Peterae to try something on another thread with his spherics coil and will ask you something also.

Simply, if you have any type of coil, can you position it around or above the spark gap and put a volt meter on it, or add a diode and a cap to the coil and put a voltmeter on the cap. I would like to know if the spark gap itself, if inside a coil, will impart energy to the coil and hence increase the voltage inside the capacitor. If you have different types of coils, horizontal wound, toroidal or whatever, you can then try them to see the differences. This would be isolated from your present circuit but there may be some untapped energy around the spark.

@poynt99

Thanks for your PMs and thanks for your work. Maybe put a permanent link to it in your signature so people will see it easily.

I have been working more hours these days but have started reading your doc. I may not be the best person to comment on it. Pulsing 300vdc is not an easy task. I know you have great interest in the spherics design but I still do not understand why there is so much to do with this. I cannot see any link to the SM TPU. From what I can tell, the spherics design itself has some major flaws. In a nutshell, guys are not realizing that the field only happens one way and you have to be flexible enough to find the best directionality of the field. Some thoughts on this are;

- The bottom coils should be on pivots that can enable you to change the coil angle.
- The bottom coils are right angled at a small incline, but they should also be tilted off the right angle by 15-20 degrees right if you want the field to move left, or tilted left if you want the field to move right.
- Having the bottom coils at a right angle will send the north (or south) polarity over the toroid but in two directions, left and right, and this will create a stationary condition, this is why you will need to tilt them so only one side of the field hits the toroid in one direction.
- I would say the toroid itself has to have at least 26-29 awg wire or thinner.
- The toroid should be wound one layer, then covered with two layers of a thin paper ribbon, then another layer, then cover with paper, then another layer and so on. All layers connected in parallel to each other wound in the same direction. This layering will permit the coil to take up a 3 dimensional space for the top and bottom coil fields to permeate without creating adverse skin effects. Also to prevent deflection, each additional wind could be wound courser then the previous wind so the outer most wind will not act as a shield as it gets energized. In water treatment, we call this a depth type filter. Hey you could call it a toroidal depth ether sieve.

This is why I am wondering why guys are building tripods, etc. Just make the coils and place them on any type of non magnetic support to be able to change the coil angles. It seems rather presumptuous that guys would expect the field to react in such a rigid manner as to make everything so permanent, then if they do not see the results, not realizing they could be only a few angles away from success. That would be a pity indeed.

But the main drawback of the spherics design will still be the fact that only 20-30% of the energy consumed by the coils will actually take part in a directed flux to conversion. The remaining energy will just be dissipated into space. Now maybe, just maybe, this dissipation will create an NMR rotating attraction field to attract ether energy into the device, I cannot say, but it is nice to think about.

The north and south polarities must convince the carrier to go in the right direction.

Then the fun would start.

@wattsup

QuoteOK I found there was one wire I did not see with all the wires on the bench, that went directly form the negative of the battery to the negative side of the capacitor. The voltage started going down on the battery about 6  hours after I started and by the next morning was down to 22 volts off the two batteries.

LOL, I was wondering if this was the case. This same thing has happened to me a few times and then I traced the circuit and still could not figure it out. Finally I started pulling wires one at a time until the culprit was found.
Best Regards