Lüling magnet motor by Ufopolitics

[Ufopolitics]

A GENERAL ADVICE ABOUT THIS BUILD...AND SOME ENGINEERING TIPS


In Engineering DESIGN of complex Mechanical Systems, it is always recommended to brake/separate the whole assembly, THE ENTIRE MACHINE, or ENGINE into "Sub-Systems"...This is done for two main  reasons.


1- To be able to dedicate (In the DESIGN STAGE) to each Sub System a SPECIFIC FUNCTION which is some how attached to the whole system, but runs independently when looking at it isolated.


Example: In a Diesel Common Rail Pump...We almost always have a Small Primary Feed Pump, incorporated to the main Pump Embodiment or Housing, which is in charge to keep a constant -low pressure- fuel feeding to the Pump, but basically used for "Priming" the pump from empty, preventing from self damage.
It is connected to the Main shaft mechanically and Fuel Input to this primary feed small pump, however, its components run as a "Sub System" in order to be taken apart without going into the Main Pump Assembly.


Another more General example: In a Car Engine, We have so many "Sub Systems" that it is very hard to cite them all here...like Cooling System, Electrical System, Lubricating System, Ignition System, Fuel Injection System, Timing System...and so on and on...and on.


2- At the time to DIAGNOSE A FAILURE, it would help Us to go directly to the specified Sub System, which is causing the Engine not to run at all, or running with failures, like stalling...or overheating...etc,etc...since We have dedicated a SPECIFIC FUNCTION to each Sub System.


Now, whenever building a Complex Prototype like this Lüling Motor...We must follow the same Engineering principles above, HOWEVER, when building ANY PROTOTYPE we must have in mind How to make ALL POSSIBLE ADJUSTMENTS in our Build, and applying it to ALL separate Sub Systems.

This would help Us to be able to DIAGNOSE why it is NOT RUNNING?...Where is the issue?, or the malfunction that we need to correct.


If We build it as a WHOLE COMPLEX, ALL ENCLOSED ASSEMBLY set, without Sub systems build separately or be able to take them apart separately, and be able to check each, also separatedly...then it would be very hard for Us to identify where the failure is!!


And so, we end up "disregarding" this build...and maybe, just maybe, we had the solution in our hands...and only a little change of one of our sub systems would have make it work perfectly well.




Hope this help you all in your build, as it will also take frustrations to a more easier to resolve level.




Regards




Ufopolitics

[Ufopolitics]

AN EXAMPLE OF "SUB-SYSTEMS" IN MY BUILD...


On the image below I have separated two Sub systems, the TRIGGERING SYSTEM and the SWITCHING SYSTEM, by mounting them in Separate Plates and bolted down by Three (3) Phillips Bolts, mounted to the main plate, but making sure I could be able to adjust ANGLES and POSITIONING of EACH Sub System independently BUT  related to the main Magnet Shaft Assembly...


For example, I could move the ENTIRE Triggering System to a closer or further ANGLE, Related to the Actuator Roller Rod, mounted on Disc Assembly...or in many other positioning which will give me different results...And this is a TIMMING ADJUSTMENT to the speed of the Motor...
Since it is mounted on Rollers running on the flat surface of the connecting lever...it gives me a lot of free movement along the CONECTING LEVER surface.

And so, also the Switching System...could also be pivoted entirely to Right or Left, or in an ANGULAR adjustment...in  order to obtain a better result...


Always make sure to MARK a contour around your sub system plate on the main plate, BEFORE ANY ADJUSTMENTS...so you could always  return back to the "reset point" in case you moved it and it worsen the results...




Regards




Ufopolitics

[knovos]

Thanks for the wise lessons Ufopolitics. I actually figured out myself to make as many separate components as possible. Because 3D printing takes a long time, this was the main reason, adjustments can now be reprinted quickly instead of large parts that are full of elements that take forever. That last drawing you show there is much clearer. I see a small rod triggering the firing mechanism. Then a whole system of springs and handles is activated without causing drag because it is separate from the turntable.


Even though you use crapy software and do everything custom-made with different machining techniques, I'm still interested in the files even though they are 2D. With 3D printing, there are still many possibilities to make strong components with special plastics. Maybe tweaked here and there.


Maybe I can copy your latest drawing into Autodesk Fusion 360. Basically, everything is there. A high-resolution version would help me a lot with that.


regards,
Knovos

[Ufopolitics]

Thanks for the wise lessons Ufopolitics. I actually figured out myself to make as many separate components as possible. Because 3D printing takes a long time, this was the main reason, adjustments can now be reprinted quickly instead of large parts that are full of elements that take forever. That last drawing you show there is much clearer. I see a small rod triggering the firing mechanism. Then a whole system of springs and handles is activated without causing drag because it is separate from the turntable.


Even though you use crapy software and do everything custom-made with different machining techniques, I'm still interested in the files even though they are 2D. With 3D printing, there are still many possibilities to make strong components with special plastics. Maybe tweaked here and there.


Maybe I can copy your latest drawing into Autodesk Fusion 360. Basically, everything is there. A high-resolution version would help me a lot with that.


regards,
Knovos

Hello Knovos,


I saved a copy as DWG (Native AUTOCAD Format) and DXF (Drawing eXchange Format) but it will not let me publish it here, because theey are too large files...


I will try sending it through our mail here on site...or send me your external mail here and I will send it to you.


I can not guarantee how it will open in your AUTOCAD, as I have not tested it yet...
I also build a lot of LAYERS, in order to separate different formats or sub-systems, construction levers, rollers, Neutralization ON and OFF etc,etc...So I can turn OFF or ON Visibility of each layer...


So, I have saved them in those formats above...and it has a warning that says "You have selected a file format that may not support all of TurboCAD 2021's features"


Let me know if it works...but eventually, I will be also working on AUTOCAD for this build...not now though...




Ufopolitics

[Ufopolitics]

OTF (Out To Front) Knife Mechanism



Hello to All,


I am very happy to say that I have found the "perfect mechanism" to build this Engine...it is much simpler to build than the one I have shown before...and yes, Knovos, it could also be made of plastic printed parts...


Of course, some modifications would need to be done from the original mechanism...but the main principle is basically the same...


A very short and smooth triggering, while delivering an output of a greater distance and with much more force, and very fast response!!


So, here is a video, where it is completely taken apart in all components (and there are many more vids like this on YouTube) and explained its main principle.


For our purpose of operation, we need to remove (in our design) the rear "fully retract" Locking System or the Spring Pin...in order that it does not locks in the backward (retracted) position, but returns to front very fast...and then locks only at the front then released with a front trigger mechanism....which would be released in a timely fashion by the Rotor actuator and lever combinations...just a couple of millimiters...




HOW MICROTECH OTF (OUT THE FRONT) KNIVES WORK




Regards




Ufopolitics