The Tesla Project

[armagdn03]

Wattsup and all,
After you pointing out your thread about using an armature for the controller, it did seem like a much better idea, it is deisned to tranfer electricity.  So I made another controller out of the same motor I am using, an extra one of course.  What I did was removed the commutator from the spare motor, and pressed it on my original motor that is powered by the batteries.  Then my driving motor and controller are all on the same shaft.  Nice and compact.  I will attach pics.  My problem is that it heats up very quick while operating.   Maybe 2 minutes worth of run time, thats not right.  Second, it drains the batter quickly. 

I have a couple things I wanted to ask,

1. My motor is a 120volt AC motor, but have the same wiring configuration as Teslas Ozone patent, is this a problem if I run it at 120VDC???  I didnt think so??

2.  In the oringal motor before disassembly, it had a bearing on one side and a bushing on the other.  Since I essencialy attached two motors together, I used both bushing supports and did not use the bearings to support the shafts, maybe causing to much friction??

3.  My controller commutator is turning black, from overheating, and the whole room begins to smell after 1/2hour of testing, could it be drawing to much current, Maybe to much resistance from the choking coil??  I didnt measure to check??

4.  Lastly the controller when running at 120volts worth of DC batteries, spins very quickly(which is normal with the higher voltage) but arcs very bad,  you see lines of electricity around the controller(commuator), is this normal. 


I thought this setup was perfect, but it does not work good.  I going to try this once more using this motor setup.  Ill go buy two more motors tomarrow, and instead of disassembling them all, I will just thread the end shafts and join them with a extended nut.  This way I could eliminate all the bearsin causing excess friction. 

I trulely think a relay beging fed by a reluctor rind and sensor is the best way to do this, it makes a good contact everytime.  I dont know at this point??  Any suggestions from anyone.  Any suggestion on how to make a good working model, I mean wi already know Tesla's Ozone Patent works great.

Thanks guys Fern

Nice looking shunt motor,

Notice on the patent that connected to the shunt motor aside from the commutator, there was a separate circuit controller controlled by the spin of the motor. In reality, this is not worth your time doing, it will take machining skills to do anything worth while. You can make any sort of circuit controller you want, but there is no need to make them until you decide on what the ratios will be on the other components. Resonance people, if you ever built a tesla coil, you should know what this is about, and not just anyone a correctly tuned one. You guys are designing the guitar pick, when you should be working on getting it tuned.

[wattsup]

@clone447

I think @armagdn03 is right on the tuning aspect. The whole point of the Tesla Ozone Patent is to show the relationships between low voltage, capacitance, high induction, low induction and high voltage.

You have a very good idea on mounting a second commutator on that motor. I tried to do that also with a bigger motor but was impossible to get it off the first one. Maybe I should try again. Maybe with a flywheel puller. lol

First of all it may be good to see how you have connected your circuit so if you can draw out a small diagram, this would be helpful. Please show the ohmage of the motor coil and your transformer primary and secondary voltage/amps ratings as well as their ohmage values.

For the capacitor, try and find a capacitor in the range of 47mf and 200-400 volts or more. If your capacitance is much higher then this, your commutator will create more sparks.

Also, don't run this at 120 volts dc since the resulting spikes will be very high and the commutator will get normally much hotter.  Also at 120 volts the motor will probably turn too fast for the circuit to react inductively. Use only 12-24 volts dc to start.

An AC motor can be run with dc if it is pulsed DC. The pulsing will happen when your commutator shorts the circuit. You may need to manually turn it to get it started.

Just in case, here is how to wire it up.

1) Connect one side of the switching commutator with one side of the capacitor to the battery positive.
2) Connect other side of capacitor to the one side of the primary of your working transformer.
3) Connect other side of working transformer to the other side of the switching commutator and to one side of the motor coil.
4) Now when you  connect the other side of the motor coil to ground, the motor should start turning.

You can put a manual on/off switch on the positive or negative of the battery.

If the motor coil does not have enough inductive capacity to help charge the capacitor, you may need to add another coil in series with the motor coil. This can be the secondary coil of most any good size 110vac/12vac or 220vac/24vac transformer.

Hope this helps.

[sparks]

    Commutation in a series wound motor must first short the coil by bridging the two commutator bars attached to the coil undercommutation.  Then reverse the current through the coil.  The brushes are designed only for the amount of energy involved in this coil by coil process not the entire motor current.  Very often windings are placed in series with the main field coils to magnetically cancel the commutating coil on the armature to take the heat off the brushes.
  Hope you can use some of this information.

[armagdn03]

@clone447

I think @armagdn03 is right on the tuning aspect. The whole point of the Tesla Ozone Patent is to show the relationships between low voltage, capacitance, high induction, low induction and high voltage.

You have a very good idea on mounting a second commutator on that motor. I tried to do that also with a bigger motor but was impossible to get it off the first one. Maybe I should try again. Maybe with a flywheel puller. lol

First of all it may be good to see how you have connected your circuit so if you can draw out a small diagram, this would be helpful. Please show the ohmage of the motor coil and your transformer primary and secondary voltage/amps ratings as well as their ohmage values.

For the capacitor, try and find a capacitor in the range of 47mf and 200-400 volts or more. If your capacitance is much higher then this, your commutator will create more sparks.

Also, don't run this at 120 volts dc since the resulting spikes will be very high and the commutator will get normally much hotter.  Also at 120 volts the motor will probably turn too fast for the circuit to react inductively. Use only 12-24 volts dc to start.

An AC motor can be run with dc if it is pulsed DC. The pulsing will happen when your commutator shorts the circuit. You may need to manually turn it to get it started.

Just in case, here is how to wire it up.

1) Connect one side of the switching commutator with one side of the capacitor to the battery positive.
2) Connect other side of capacitor to the one side of the primary of your working transformer.
3) Connect other side of working transformer to the other side of the switching commutator and to one side of the motor coil.
4) Now when you  connect the other side of the motor coil to ground, the motor should start turning.

You can put a manual on/off switch on the positive or negative of the battery.

If the motor coil does not have enough inductive capacity to help charge the capacitor, you may need to add another coil in series with the motor coil. This can be the secondary coil of most any good size 110vac/12vac or 220vac/24vac transformer.

Hope this helps.

The motor shown in that pic is a shunt or "universal" motor, it will run off of pure DC, Pulsed DC or AC, with no special wiring needed.

[clone477]

Thanks for the replies guys.  I have hooked up as per Tesla's patent, also Ive have used a max of 47uf for the cap but have noticed that a smaller value produced more output from my transformer.  After digging aliitle deeper into this I thought how the hell did telsa do this switch, he didnt use a commutator and brushes, all that sparking is lost power/energy.  Then I found 5 patents for circuit controllers that I never paid any attention to.  It those patents he explains how important it is to ABRUPTLY make and break the circuit, WITHOUT any sparking.  On my commutator design, I had a ring of sparks travelling around atleast half of the commutator, very inefficient.  That also explains why before I said I got a larger out put spark when just tapping my two test leads together to make and break the circuit, instead of using the commutator.  By tapping I was makking and breaking the connection more abruptly.  Anyways, after looking at the controller they do not look very simple to replicate, although that will not stop me from trying.  I think we should all start trying to replicate that controller first as the patents says, because it was designed for this purpose to make the Ozone patent very effiecent when running.  Let me know what you guys think.  Fern