Overunity.com Archives

Quote from: IronHead on December 31, 2007, 10:53:42 PM
Because to many people screwed up this very complex and expensive Dynamo and gave it a bad name.
But it works

Quote from: Thaelin on January 01, 2008, 09:26:04 AM
Just for reference, when contacted why the files were removed, she said that they would be reposted at a later time ... Hang in there.

Quote from: romerouk on May 03, 2011, 07:08:19 PM
Here is my replication of a Muller Dynamo with few addons.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nnO9O-fm9TU

Quote from: SkyWatcher123 on May 04, 2011, 05:51:09 AM
Hi romerouk, nice work on the generator. It seems as though you're using principals from your 'overunity 2' video. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9lYTr16vdOM (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9lYTr16vdOM)
And on top of that you're using the odd/even setup like Muller, good ideas.

So with the example of your video 'overunity 2', where you show 2 magnets at opposite end repulsively interacting and nullifying that repulsion by using the ferro core attraction at the coil/core.
It seems possible one can get extra shaft power from that alone, though the odd/even is probably an extra bonus.

I'm going to test the principles in the 'overunity 2' video, i have everything here from other projects to easily replicate it. Was that coil intended to be pulsed or is it driven by a separate motor.
peace love light

Quote from: gyulasun on May 04, 2011, 05:08:54 AM
Hi Romero,

CONGRATULATIONS!  You seem to have a COP=2 setup!  Very good.

For any naysayers a possible looping should be practical by using a DC/DC converter, such off the shelf units have at least a COP of 0.8 i.e. a 80% efficiency (or higher), this means the resultant COP still remains around 1.6 (0.8*2) and because you showed 12V output at 2A current (24Watt) the remaining available extra power (beyond the output taken for selfrunning) is at least 5-6Watt:
you can win the overunity price right now!

Here is a possible DC/DC converter I think would be good for looping back your output to input:
http://www.powerstream.com/dc6.htm

Of course there should be many other products like this or you can surely build a simple one from switch mode integrated circuits. The requirement is the converter should have a regulated 12V output voltage to prevent run away situation.

rgds,  Gyula

Quote from: penno64 on May 04, 2011, 07:32:55 AM
Hi Romero,

May I ask, what provides the trigger for the drive coils, please?

Penno

Quote from: penno64 on May 04, 2011, 08:12:18 AM
One more -

are you calling a top and bottom pair, one coil?

Thanks, Penno

Quote from: woopy on May 04, 2011, 06:09:44 PM
hi Romero

thanks for the driver coil shematic ( i use it since some times on my shorting coil experiment and it works great,, thanks )

So everything seems very easy to replicate. And so far, you do not use  "shorting"  on the generative coils. Only paralelling those coils, rectified  to the load-

So the main effect seems to come from the odd / even coil to magnet arrangement coupled with your addition of external magnet.

woww so simple genius

bravo

Will begin the replication ASAP

good luck at all

Laurent

Quote from: romerouk on May 04, 2011, 05:25:33 PM
[...]
Only 2 coils (pairs) are driving.
All other coils are connected to bridge rectifiers, each set of coils goes to a rectifier then all are connected in parallel
[...]
RomeroUK

Quote from: nul-points on May 05, 2011, 05:18:19 AM
thanks for the info, Romero

sounds good about the smoothing cap - what capacity did you use & what did the Vout & Iout change to?

i guess with a little more windings on the gen coils that it would be possible to generate sufficient o/p voltage headroom to use for charging the i/p battery directly, without conversion (apart from rectification, of course)


a technique that i'm finding useful (with a different experiment) is to supply a load circuit direct from a battery as usual - then connect the o/p buffer capacitor to the battery via an inductor which is large enough to block switching transients between cap & battery

the cap would be ok to receive any transients from the o/p and it can develop a slight voltage increase above the battery voltage to keep a constant 'trickle' charge into the battery thro' the inductor

thanks
np


http://docsfreelunch.blogspot.com (http://docsfreelunch.blogspot.com)

Quote from: romerouk on May 05, 2011, 06:39:23 AM
I have used a 4700uf/25v and the voltage increased to 13.8 with the load

Quote from: neptune on May 05, 2011, 07:01:42 AM
[...]
To the best of my knowledge , the charge/discharge efficiency of lead acid batteries is about 80%.
[...]
Is the charge discharge efficiency of caps 100% ?
[...]
I think it was nul-points who suggested some coil rewinding to remove the necessity of a DC-DC converter . A simpler solution would be to rewind only the drive coils to work on a lower voltage . If you do this , include taps in the winding to optimise things.

Quote from: neptune on May 05, 2011, 08:58:14 AM
@Romerouk .Can you please tell us more about your magnets . Size , grade , source of supply ? and could you please comment on my question re multistrand wire . Re the coil cores . Are these just pieces of ferrite rod from an old radio , or are they commercial cores ? Sorry about all these questions , but we need as much info as possible to replicate .It would seem from the video that your battery is 17 Amp hour . So if you dispensed with the machine, and connected that lamp directly to the battery , one could reasonably expect a run time of about 9 hours until the battery voltage drops to ,say , 11volts . That is if the battery is in good condition . However you say that the machine has run for several days without substantially discharging the battery .If this is the case ,you can forget about analysing complex waveforms .In my book , this shows indisputable proof of overunity .
@nul-points . Yes fine cycling weather , thanks but very windy . On the flat lands of Lincolnshire , the winds are our mountains ...

Quote from: neptune on May 05, 2011, 12:58:30 PM
[...]
we need to drive it with the most efficient motor available .Is a pulse motor the best choice? I don't know , I am just asking . Maybe a conventional permanent brush motor is more efficient, or a brushless ? Whatever motor we use , it needs to be direct drive , to eliminate transmission losses
[...]

Quote from: romerouk on May 05, 2011, 03:18:55 PM
It WORKSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSS !
I am going to upload the video, is almost 20 minutes of self running.
The skeptics should prepare the arsenal..... :)

Quote from: gyulasun on May 05, 2011, 04:16:53 PM
Hi Romero,

you are welcome and I am very pleased for your looping success!
Later, when you have some more time, try to place some further load to the 12V output of the converter, just to see how much extra 'reserve' energy is still hidden in the setup.
I do believe that further improvements are possible, like getting rid of the diode bridge and use controlled MOSFETs as rectifiers and so on.

rgds,  Gyula

Quote from: romerouk on May 05, 2011, 03:18:55 PM
It WORKSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSS !

Quote from: woopy on May 05, 2011, 04:20:21 PM
;) :D ;D :D :D ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D

yeepee !!

video video video

Quote from: neptune on May 05, 2011, 04:30:16 PM
While we wait for the video , here is a thought  .I assume that all the magnets in the rotor have the same pole facing up . So therefore , am I right in thinking that the output from a given pair of coils is NOT AC , but pulsed DC ? If I am right , we can replace all the bridge rectifiers with single diodes . This would cut losses and improve the voltage of the out put .Can someone tell me if I am right or wrong ? Meanwhile , this is much more exiting [and of more benefit to mankind] than the first man on the moon .

Quote from: romerouk on May 05, 2011, 04:36:39 PM
all magnets are same pole facing up. I have a spare rotor with magnets NSNS but I have never tried it but I will...
I am looking forward to bulid a proper one now.
I think now that we know it works people should try to replicate a bigger size.
Biggest problem I had was to get the rotor made.The core is very important
The picture below shows the core i am looking to use in the next setup.

Quote from: Nali2001 on May 05, 2011, 05:17:21 PM
Hi Romero,
Great build and results.
Now I have a couple of questions if you don't mind lol:

- What is the core material?
- You use 2 drive coils and 7 output coils?
- So, you take the output from each output coil > rectify and smooth that > that power is than via dc-to-dc converted back into the input coils?
- The magnets on top of the coils, are then really needed?
- How many rotor magnets do you use?
- Can you please post some good pictures as well?

Thanks for sharing!
Regards,
Steven

Quote from: neptune on May 05, 2011, 05:38:00 PM
This is a night we shall remember all our lives , for sure . I hope romerouk does not get overwhelmed and go into hiding , and that someone collates all the info into one place . Guess it will bbe on Peswiki by tomorrow . Mainstream news ? in about 10 years . going to try to sleep . see you all later .

Quote from: nul-points on May 05, 2011, 05:58:19 PM
...

i can see that the DC/DC convertor voltage switch allows you to control the drive - but i'm interested to know if it is possible to replace the converter altogether by just connecting the buffer cap to the i/p using one or more diodes in series

would you be able to try that at some point?
....

Quote from: Nali2001 on May 05, 2011, 05:44:14 PM
Hi Romero,
Great! Yes I am wondering about the rotor magnet orientation as well.
I notice not all input coils have a magnet on top, you ran out of magnets or was this needed?
Why are there diodes on the full wave rectifiers, more power handling?

Thanks!
Steven

Quote from: FreeEnergyInfo on May 05, 2011, 05:40:48 PM
romerouk....
10 000 STARS....

???????????????????????????????????
ROTOR MAGNET  S N S N S N

OR

ROTOR MAGNET  S S S S S S


????????????????????????????????????
http://freeenergylt.narod2.ru/neogen/

http://depositfiles.com/ru/files/l0njcj24c

http://depositfiles.com/ru/files/pwuiu230e

Quote from: gyulasun on May 05, 2011, 06:11:47 PM
Hi nul-points,

I apologize for 'chiming' in, I do think a kind of regulator for voltage or current should be included in the feedback loop, otherwise either slowly or suddenly a runaway situation develops in the loop. A battery is an excellent such regulator and you can even abuse it to an extent but the moment you remove it from the setup and you do not care on some regulation, your setup becomes unstable for sure. This is why the input voltage (which is the output voltage from such a regulator) is to be kept under control.

rgds, Gyula

Quote from: penno64 on May 05, 2011, 06:20:01 PM
Hi Romero,

I still can't believe IT WORKS !!! Its AMAZING !!!!!!

In the pic of the stators and rotor, you showed the nuts and bolts used to secure a I guess,
aid the magnetic field into the coil. May I ask how you secured the coils to the rotor when you replaced the bolts/screws and nuts withe ferrite.

Also, you mentioned multistrand mag wire for the cores. Can you be more specific, please.

Regards, Penno

Quote from: romerouk on May 05, 2011, 06:12:58 PM

@nul-points
I don't want to hear from anyone, steorn or others like them.This info is for all people and free too.

Quote from: gauschor on May 05, 2011, 06:27:05 PM
The linked pictures posted by FreeEnergyInfo are confusing me. I would rather like to see the circuit made by RomeroUK :) or at least which pictures/circuits are really necessary to construct the device.

Quote from: romerouk on May 05, 2011, 06:27:50 PM
oh my god ... :) a lot to answer tonight.
The coils are made of acrylic and all parts are acrylic - I used dichloromethane to glue them all.
Multistrand made of 7 wires totaling  0.8mm or 0.82mm, not 100% sure.

Quote from: Groundloop on May 05, 2011, 07:12:31 PM
@romerouk,

Great work.

What is the type of Hall switch you are using?

Thanks,
GL.

Quote from: romerouk on May 05, 2011, 07:26:33 PM
A3144

Quote from: Groundloop on May 05, 2011, 07:47:21 PM
@romerouk,

Back a few pages you posted a drawing of your switch.
The switching transistor inside the A3144 is a NPN
capable of switching 25mA. In your drawing you did
use a 100 Ohm resistor. Did you use this resistor
as a pull up from pin 3 (collector inside A3144) to
the positive rail?

GL.

Quote from: gyulasun on May 04, 2011, 05:08:54 AM
Hi Romero,

CONGRATULATIONS!  You seem to have a COP=2 setup!  Very good.

For any naysayers a possible looping should be practical by using a DC/DC converter, such off the shelf units have at least a COP of 0.8 i.e. a 80% efficiency (or higher), this means the resultant COP still remains around 1.6 (0.8*2) and because you showed 12V output at 2A current (24Watt) the remaining available extra power (beyond the output taken for selfrunning) is at least 5-6Watt:
you can win the overunity price right now!

Here is a possible DC/DC converter I think would be good for looping back your output to input:
http://www.powerstream.com/dc6.htm

rgds,  Gyula

Quote from: neptune on May 05, 2011, 07:45:43 PM
I have asked this before but if got missed in the exitement . All the rotor magnets are same pole face up . I feel that this may mean that from a given generator coil , the out put will be not AC , but pulsed DC . If this is true , then a BRIDGE RECTIFIER IS NOT NEEDED.It can be replaced by a single diode . Can anybody confirn or deny this please? Single diode equals less volts drop and higher output .

Quote from: romerouk on May 05, 2011, 08:03:04 PM
I call it pin 1 the voltage in, from plus goes to pin 1 thru a 100ohm resistor.
This schematic was used by many others in the shorting coil experiments.It is simple and works great.For my next build I am going to use proper mosfets with dedicated driver circuits...

Quote from: poynt99 on May 05, 2011, 08:07:27 PM
Looping or using a scope to measure the output power will tell the true story.

The input power (~ 11.3W) is going to be fairly accurate because of the DC source. However Gyula, you should be aware that multiplying an average current by an average voltage of an output produced by induced currents in a coil, is not going to have a power factor of 1, and therefore the simple product of 24W will not be accurate.

Judging by the intensity of the bulb and assuming the efficiency to be 80%, the true output power is likely closer to 8W or 9W.

Nice job on the build R. :)

.99

Quote from: i_ron on May 05, 2011, 09:19:39 PM
Not wishing to detract from your achievement but it is my understanding that the A3144 has a built in voltage regulator so no resistor is needed in the supply to pin 1. However, as Ground loop pointed out there should be a 5 to 10K resistor from pin 3 to + supply as a pullup for the open collector.
Normally this resistor can go from pin 1 to pin 3.

If this sketch came from EV Grey, then a word of caution, several circuits are incorrectly presented.

http://www.allegromicro.com/en/Products/Design/hall-effect-sensor-ic-applications-guide/AN27701.pdf

Fig 11

Ron

Quote from: neptune on May 06, 2011, 03:41:13 AM
@I-ron . Thanks for clearing up that point about AC or DC output . @poynt99 .what you say about measurement and power factor is a point I brought up earlier .However , this argument becomes irrelevant in view of the fact that the machine has been looped AND feeds a load at the same time .

Quote from: neptune on May 06, 2011, 07:09:12 AM
I am trying to get a team together to replicate this . One problem with replication can be , do you try to exactly copy  the working example or do you use materials to hand to save money . I plan to compromise by building a good shaft and rotor and then experimenting with the other bits .
           Here is an important question . What is the orientation of the magnets on top of the coils? If we assume that all rotor magnets are north pole up , are the magnets on top of the coils north pole up or south pole up . Also I need to learn more about Hall effect switches .Obviously , the motor drive coil needs to be energised as a magnet approaches it , and switched off as the magnet comes to its closest point to the coil . I am not quite clear at the moment what causes it to switch off at this point .

Quote from: SkyWatcher123 on May 06, 2011, 04:51:06 AM
Hi folks, well I'm working on a replication, though I will be using 5/16" diameter steel bolts with 24 gauge wire, had 6 already made from previous project, just need to make 4 more and am using 6 - 1" diameter neo magnets on 3/4" mdf rotor, 6" center to center of magnets.
Will be using 10 coils total or 5 per side.
Will use hall effect with TIP42. Will start with one coil pair drive.
Will use same 1" diameter neo magnets at back of coil/cores to reduce drag.

I've built similar setups previously, so this will be no problem, just have some drilling and coiling to do yet.
peace love light
tyson

Quote from: romerouk on May 06, 2011, 08:29:49 AM

PS: I already have a lot of offers to sell my device:) I have no intention to do that.
First I need to replicate myself then we shall see.

Quote from: neptune on May 06, 2011, 07:09:12 AM
I am trying to get a team together to replicate this . One problem with replication can be , do you try to exactly copy  the working example or do you use materials to hand to save money .

Quote from: romerouk on May 06, 2011, 03:36:18 AM
Hi,
I understand what you are saying but this is exactly how I used the circuit and it works just fine.As I said before, other people here have replicated that circuit and worked perfec, I think woopy is one of them.I had it running as is from 3.5 volt input to 18v input.
That resistor has a role in my understanding, I don't care in general about the info presented about a product, I am always trying to see it my way and in general I was right.
As I said it works as is.

Quote from: i_ron on May 06, 2011, 11:37:30 AM
LOL, I didn't say it didn't work, just that it may not be "good engineering"

Lots of people will be getting their first taste of electronics here now this is out and as a first step it would be best to present the hall in a manner that they can build on latter. As it is this works only on a PNP transistor. When you come to advance to the next level this simplification will not work.

It is working simply by taking the base to ground on activation then letting "leakage" currents take it back to a positive potential to turn off the transistor. All I was suggesting was that this could lead to sloppy imprecise timing.

But again, thank you for sharing the fruits of your research here, it is much appreciated.  One question... is the 'helper' magnet separated from the back of the coil by the full thickness of the acrylic? Would you confirm that the switching is to attract in?

Thanks

Ron

Quote from: romerouk on May 06, 2011, 12:02:28 PM

Small things can make a huge difference, like my extra diodes on top of the rectifier

All the best,
RomeroUK

Quote from: nul-points on May 06, 2011, 12:11:03 PM
hi Romero

is it possible to provide a simple sketch for the connection of the 'extra diodes'?

many thanks
np


http://docsfreelunch.blogspot.com (http://docsfreelunch.blogspot.com)

Quote from: romerouk on May 06, 2011, 12:02:28 PM
I understand now.I know
snip
I have spent about one month to do all this testings and adjustments. Small things can make a huge difference, like my extra diodes on top of the rectifier.The gap from the rotor to the coil I had it increased and decreased hundreds of times to get it right.

All the best,
RomeroUK

Quote from: romerouk on May 06, 2011, 12:25:20 PM
no need for a sketch, they are in parallel with the one inside the rectifier

Quote from: Groundloop on May 06, 2011, 12:43:11 PM
@romerouk,

You probably did miss my questions.

What is the diameter of you rotor?
Also, what is the distance from the rotor outer rim and to the Neo magnets?

GL.

Quote from: i_ron on May 06, 2011, 12:35:19 PM
Romero,

Thanks, I didn't want to get off on the wrong foot... ;)

The multi strand... is it from computer monitor degaussing coils?

I hope not as I just recycled a whole bunch...lol

Rgds, Ron

Quote from: romerouk on May 06, 2011, 12:50:20 PM
Sorry, diameter is 25cm and distance from the rotor to the coils is about 3.5-4mm.

Quote from: romerouk on May 06, 2011, 01:04:38 PM
@Groundloop
Excellent job, well done!
After looking at the website I bought the wires I realised that is 7 X 0.125MM SOLDERABLE STRAND EN.Cu that makes a bit more than 0.8 mm, all other info is OK.

Quote from: Staffman on May 06, 2011, 01:33:31 PM
@romerouk

Could you clear up one little detail? There are eight magnets on the rotor and nine stationary coils correct? I just want to be sure this detail is clear.

Thanks!!!

Quote from: gauschor on May 06, 2011, 02:48:43 PM
Hi Groundloop, I am not clear in the following things:

1) How are the 4 driving coils (2 pairs) connected to each other, because the hall circuit shows only one (+) and one (-), but in fact we have 4x2 = 8 wires to connect?

2) The remaining 7 coil pairs: where exactly is the rectifier placed? And which parts are connected in series?
Is it that way: each coilpair (upper+lower) leads into a shared rectifier and from this rectifier the wires are connected in series to the other rectifiers? Or is it different like: each single coil has its own full bridge rectifier which then is connected in...*guessing* ???

Quote from: gauschor on May 06, 2011, 03:28:08 PM
Thanks for the schematic this really helps :)

edit: Uh wait, u have 2 caps with different capacity? Is this the big monster cap from the video? but why 2 of them

Quote from: gauschor on May 06, 2011, 02:48:43 PM
Hi Groundloop, I am not clear in the following things:

1) How are the 4 driving coils (2 pairs) connected to each other, because the hall circuit shows only one (+) and one (-), but in fact we have 4x2 = 8 wires to connect?

2) The remaining 7 coil pairs: where exactly is the rectifier placed? And which parts are connected in series?
Is it that way: each coilpair (upper+lower) leads into a shared rectifier and from this rectifier the wires are connected in series to the other rectifiers? Or is it different like: each single coil has its own full bridge rectifier which then is connected in...*guessing* ???

Quote from: Groundloop on May 06, 2011, 03:37:01 PM
@gauschor,

I think @romerouk did say in one of his posts that he did use the small capacitor
on the output from the diode bridges. I may be wrong, but it can't do any harm in any case.
Also not shown in the above drawing is the four 1N4007 diodes soldered in parallel on each diode bridge.

GL.

Quote from: penno64 on May 05, 2011, 06:20:01 PM
Hi Romero,

I still can't believe IT WORKS !!! Its AMAZING !!!!!!

In the pic of the stators and rotor, you showed the nuts and bolts used to secure a I guess,
aid the magnetic field into the coil. May I ask how you secured the coils to the rotor when you replaced the bolts/screws and nuts withe ferrite.

Also, you mentioned multistrand mag wire for the cores. Can you be more specific, please.

Regards, Penno

Quote from: romerouk on May 06, 2011, 03:53:56 PM
The capacitor u see in the video is connected before the DC/DC regulator, direct to the bridge rectifier.I had one at the output but it does not make any difference with the regulator in place

Quote from: Groundloop on May 06, 2011, 04:10:12 PM
@romerouk,

What was the uF value and voltage rating of you BIG electrolytic capacitor?

GL.

Quote from: romerouk on May 06, 2011, 04:23:50 PM
The capacitor used is 47000uf/25volts.
I just had it started manually, no battery.
I turned the rotor few times with my hand to get some charge to the capacitor then switched the converter on.It started ok, no problem.The advantage here is that the circuit starts working from about 3.5 volts.

Quote from: romerouk on May 06, 2011, 03:53:56 PM
The capacitor u see in the video is connected before the DC/DC regulator, direct to the bridge rectifier.I had one at the output but it does not make any difference with the regulator in place

Quote from: romerouk on May 06, 2011, 04:52:29 PM
@Groundloop
What are you using to do the drawings?

Quote from: Groundloop on May 06, 2011, 04:56:23 PM
@romerouk,

Microsoft Windows Paint. :-)

GL.

Quote from: romerouk on May 06, 2011, 05:01:50 PM
:) I tought u use something more professional.
I call myself an IT engineer and I don't recognize something simple like that... bad for me :)
I have edited the previous post to you

Quote from: romerouk on May 06, 2011, 05:14:12 PM
@woopy
good to see you arround.
Regarding the stranded wire:
Some time ago in a Bedini project I have built 2 identical coils but one with normal wire and another with stranded wire.I was using this coils to collect the power from the rotor powered with a Bedini standard circuit.Same core same wire diameter, all the same...
The results at that time(no load):   normal wire output was 9.2 volts
                                                stranded wire output was 12.3
since then I have always used stranded for most of my coils
it is easy to do the same experiment like me, actually it would be nice if someone else will confirm this.
I always try everything myself, I don't take all info I found as granted.
If I was wrong I would like someone to tell me.

@Groundloop
one more change to the drawing: input cap 47000uf

Quote from: toranarod on May 06, 2011, 04:05:13 PM
this is to important to pass up
I am going to build one, I am not stopping my current project as it will work
as well. will have two motors on the go.
keep every body posted
cheers

Quote from: romerouk on May 06, 2011, 05:14:12 PM
@woopy
good to see you arround.
Regarding the stranded wire:
Some time ago in a Bedini project I have built 2 identical coils but one with normal wire and another with stranded wire.I was using this coils to collect the power from the rotor powered with a Bedini standard circuit.Same core same wire diameter, all the same...
The results at that time(no load):   normal wire output was 9.2 volts
                                                stranded wire output was 12.3
since then I have always used stranded for most of my coils
it is easy to do the same experiment like me, actually it would be nice if someone else will confirm this.
I always try everything myself, I don't take all info I found as granted.
If I was wrong I would like someone to tell me.

@Groundloop
one more change to the drawing: input cap 47000uf

Quote from: penno64 on May 06, 2011, 06:24:23 PM
Hi all,

How wonderful it is to see so many going for it.

I dont know if you are religeous Romero but, GOD BLESS YOU!

Regards, Penno

p.s. Rod, I thought you would like this.

Quote from: Magluvin on May 06, 2011, 06:37:34 PM
This is what Bruce Tpu says also with stranded wire. If the freq of operation is high, there will be more skin for skin effect to travel in a stranded wire than a solid of the same awg.  What freq? dunno.

Bruce is using litz. I believe its when each strand is coated or insulated from other strands in the same wire casing.

I suppose the insulation whether it be enamel or something like telephone wire, possibly the separation electrically from each other helps in some way.


Good job Romero.  ;]   


Mags

Quote from: romerouk on May 06, 2011, 06:58:40 PM
Hi,
People should understand that when I am talking about stranded wire I am reffering to a bunch of wires isolated from each other.
In my understanding litz wire is a bunch of wires unisolated like in a normal power cord.
I am specifying this just to make sure everyone understands.
English is not my first language, sometimes might have some mistakes...

Regards,
RomeroUK

Quote from: AlphaTech on May 06, 2011, 07:07:31 PM
Hi Romero,

great work you have done. I have a question about the Muller motor generator:

I just want to be sure about the magnet configuration of the stator-rotor-stator.

From top to bottom, is it really like this???: NS-coil SN coil-NS      or     SN-coil NS coil-SN     so the rotor magnet is in repulsion with stator

Or it is like this confiuration which is what John BEDINI have done (patent 6392370) like this???:
NS-coil NS coil-NS      or      SN-coil SN coil-SN       

Thanks

Vince

Quote from: romerouk on May 06, 2011, 06:51:57 PM

I am curious to see how many will actually do anything, many are just waiting and waiting... don't know what.

All the best,
RomeroUK

Quote from: Groundloop on May 06, 2011, 07:13:03 PM
@RomeroUK,

Litz wire has many enameled copper wires slightly twisted together.
(All wires are insulated from each other.)

I think you meant to say that you are using Litz wire on your coils.

GL.

Quote from: i_ron on May 06, 2011, 07:48:28 PM
Well I have started, does that count? lol

Rgds Ron

Quote from: romerouk on May 06, 2011, 07:52:43 PM
well done, first one that shows some progress.
who is next? :)
what is the rotor diameter, thickness?

Quote from: i_ron on May 06, 2011, 08:55:05 PM
Thank you, just a cutting from the plastic shop, only 225mm by12.5mm, but was as big as they had.

In scaling up your picture I think your magnets are spaced two magnet diameters apart?  Can you say what the ohms are for a single coil?

What RPM does it turn? Pardon me If you have already said all of this, lol

Rgds Ron

Quote from: romerouk on May 06, 2011, 07:50:29 PM
well, whatever :) call it litz, in UK is called Stranded Enamelled Copper -
Bunched copper conductors each strand individually enamelled
http://wires.co.uk/acatalog/st_wire.html
7 X 0.125MM SOLDERABLE STRAND EN.Cu
Ref: ST01250007-500

Quote from: romerouk on May 05, 2011, 03:18:55 PM
It WORKSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSS !
I am going to upload the video, is almost 20 minutes of self running.
The skeptics should prepare the arsenal..... :)

Quote from: penno64 on May 07, 2011, 01:07:52 AM
Hi Rod

The DC-DC was to required to avoid burning up the driving coils - see back on early pages/posts.

This ensures 12v or wahtever to drive circuits.

Has the F&P crossed your mind in all of this. What a boom that would be eh!



Penno

Quote from: toranarod on May 07, 2011, 12:43:25 AM
There has been a lot of talk about the DC to DC converter.
What was its main function. Stepping up the voltage, isolation, both.
Where in this thread is it discussed?   
I have a few in my supply box have tried them on other motors but the efficiency was in question what switching chip did you use

Quote from: gauschor on May 07, 2011, 05:39:34 AM
Sorry to ask again, but this looks not clear to me: http://www.overunity.com/index.php?topic=3842.msg284616#msg284616 (http://www.overunity.com/index.php?topic=3842.msg284616#msg284616)

I thought you'd only need to use 4 diodes like this: http://static.electro-tech-online.com/imgcache/1674-4_diodes_bridge_rectifier.jpg (http://static.electro-tech-online.com/imgcache/1674-4_diodes_bridge_rectifier.jpg) , therfore I dont understand what this square shaped box in the middle is  ???

Quote from: gauschor on May 07, 2011, 05:39:34 AM
Sorry to ask again, but this looks not clear to me: http://www.overunity.com/index.php?topic=3842.msg284616#msg284616 (http://www.overunity.com/index.php?topic=3842.msg284616#msg284616)

I thought you'd only need to use 4 diodes like this: http://static.electro-tech-online.com/imgcache/1674-4_diodes_bridge_rectifier.jpg (http://static.electro-tech-online.com/imgcache/1674-4_diodes_bridge_rectifier.jpg) , therfore I dont understand what this square shaped box in the middle is  ???

Quote from: gauschor on May 07, 2011, 05:39:34 AM
Sorry to ask again, but this looks not clear to me: http://www.overunity.com/index.php?topic=3842.msg284616#msg284616 (http://www.overunity.com/index.php?topic=3842.msg284616#msg284616)

I thought you'd only need to use 4 diodes like this: http://static.electro-tech-online.com/imgcache/1674-4_diodes_bridge_rectifier.jpg (http://static.electro-tech-online.com/imgcache/1674-4_diodes_bridge_rectifier.jpg) , therfore I dont understand what this square shaped box in the middle is  ???

Quote from: toranarod on May 07, 2011, 03:56:28 AM
with most of the design its a pulse motor of a kind. the one thing i am very interested in is the use of the Litz wire. having seen the wire in old style CRT TVs
most of my life. I was always wondering what it may be like in a pulse motor setup. very cleaver use of this wire.
I have no doubt the hole design is relevant to its function but I would not leave out the coil configuration as a major part of its parameters.
having trouble getting the wire here in Aus. the main industrial supplier don't carry it.
 
How much wire did you buy as an average to build the motor. how much should i order?
cheers

Quote from: Groundloop on May 07, 2011, 05:54:06 AM
@gauschor,

I think he first did use only the diode bridge. Then later on he added four 1N4007 to get two
diode bridges in parallel. He got more output that way. You can probably take both the bridge
and the 1N4007 away and use some fast Schottky diodes instead.

[Edit] Sorry, I did not see that there was posted answers to this already.

GL.

Quote from: romerouk on May 07, 2011, 05:54:05 AM
The square is a bridge rectifier and diodes are making another rectifier in parallel.

Quote from: romerouk on May 06, 2011, 12:02:28 PM
The 'helper magnet' is separated from the coil by the thickness of the acrylic (1cm).On the acrylic is glued  a 1mm/20mm washer then the magnet on top.
I am driving in attraction mode. I have started the project in repulsion then tried attraction. I get much better torque in attraction.

Quote from: hartiberlin on May 06, 2011, 11:07:32 PM
Hi Romero,
many thanks for this wonderful device you have built
and for showing this openly in the public !
Congratulations.

This will really be a candidate for the overunity Prize.
Please don´t change anything on this device and try to rebuild a second unit.

Let me know, if I could come and have a look at it.
Many thanks.

Regards, Stefan.

Quote from: CTG Labs on May 07, 2011, 07:20:47 AM
Hi RomeroUK and congratulations!

I believe we only live few miles apart on opposite sides of the River Thames in London :)  I know you have had lots of interested parties requesting visits already but if you require any assistance, or a second person to test or validate then my self and my equipment are at your disposal :)

I was already talking to my buddy about replication.

Keep up the good work and best regards,

David.

Quote from: gauschor on May 07, 2011, 07:33:18 AM
@romerouk: when you post something here there is a small "Email" icon just below your name on the left side. Anyone can send you emails clicking that icon, however your real email address is still hidden, but the form will send it to your email address. You can however disable this icon completely in your profile settings.

Quote from: romerouk on May 04, 2011, 01:45:18 PM
...
If anyone is trying to replicate this please remember to do the testing with the load on and compensate the drag with the magnets on top of the coils

Quote from: Chef on May 07, 2011, 07:46:04 AM
http://www.overunity.com/index.php?topic=7394.0 (http://www.overunity.com/index.php?topic=7394.0)  ::)

Quote from: romerouk on May 06, 2011, 06:58:40 PM
Hi,
People should understand that when I am talking about stranded wire I am reffering to a bunch of wires isolated from each other.
In my understanding litz wire is a bunch of wires unisolated like in a normal power cord.
I am specifying this just to make sure everyone understands.
English is not my first language, sometimes might have some mistakes...

Regards,
RomeroUK

Quote from: romerouk on May 07, 2011, 08:22:45 AM
What are you trying to say with this link? ...that I am a hoaxer too and I am hiding behind MIB reason...
It is so easy to stay and watch but just try to be in my position for a second or so... what will you do?
Will you fill your house with people? will you expose your family to unknown situations? if you do then probably you have no family yet.

Quote from: romerouk on May 07, 2011, 08:22:45 AM
What are you trying to say with this link? ...that I am a hoaxer too and I am hiding behind MIB reason...
It is so easy to stay and watch but just try to be in my position for a second or so... what will you do?
Will you fill your house with people? will you expose your family to unknown situations? if you do then probably you have no family yet.

Quote from: hartiberlin on May 07, 2011, 08:25:56 AM
Hi Romero,
so you are using the wires normally found in AM radio coils ?
These stranded wires that are isolated to each other by candle wax ?

Many thanks.

Regards, Stefan.

Quote from: xenomorphlabs on May 07, 2011, 08:28:54 AM
Romero, just ignore such posts. That's the only attack-profile these guys have really.

Could you maybe also elaborate a bit on your Kromrey-based device you mentioned a page earlier?
There is some threads on it, but you also seem to be the first man who built that one successfully then.

Keep up the good work!

Quote from: romerouk on May 07, 2011, 08:22:45 AM
What are you trying to say with this link? ...that I am a hoaxer too and I am hiding behind MIB reason...
It is so easy to stay and watch but just try to be in my position for a second or so... what will you do?
Will you fill your house with people? will you expose your family to unknown situations? if you do then probably you have no family yet.

Quote from: romerouk on May 07, 2011, 09:14:27 AM
2 hall sensors. I will take some closer pictures to see them.The side of the rotor has small magnets with south pointing out.

Quote from: romerouk on May 07, 2011, 09:17:37 AM
magnets for hall sensors

Quote from: romerouk on May 07, 2011, 09:17:37 AM
magnets for hall sensors

Quote from: romerouk on May 07, 2011, 07:10:27 AM
Hi Stefan,
I am not planning to change it, I have already started building a new but bigger one.
I should be able to replicate my own work then expect others to do it.
Regarding comming to see it, personally I have no problem with that.
In the last few days I had so many requests from people to come and see it also someone said that it comes to buy it... without any previous discussions. This person calls himself Gary and somehow he's got my email. I don't remember posting my email anywhere here. I had a lot of discussions with my wife regarding this visits,... she is scared and she wants me to sell it and stop working on any device... I don't want to sell it and I have no intentions to do that.
After having my second unit working I might donate this one.
With you I think I have no problem comming here but let me talk with my wife first, the last think I need is a divorce. :)

Best regards,
RomeroUK

Quote from: toranarod on May 07, 2011, 09:24:35 AM
how many trigger around the disc ? I assume 8

Quote from: gotoluc on May 07, 2011, 09:29:49 AM
Hello romerouk and all

My congratulations romerouk on your dedication and hard work towards the research of free energy solutions.

I have a concern on your previous video to the self runner.

Below are frames taken from your video before and after the bulb is turned on. I can see that the amp meter doesn't change however, there is a large drop in your Battery voltage every time the bulb is turned on. Then when the bulb is turned off the battery voltage recovers from the load.

Can you explain. Sorry if this has been explained before.

Thank you for sharing your excellent research.

Luc

Quote
I had few questions from the 'replicators' here about voltage on the battery going down when the load is on.
The reason for that is that from the output bridge rectifier I am using one diode to send power back to the battery to keep it charged.When the 20watt bulb is connected the power going back to the battery is reduced resulting that slight voltage drop.
This setup was built for about 25watt load, if the load is increased then all setup must be changed.
The gap from the coils to the rotor must be changed and some other things ...

Quote from: hartiberlin on May 07, 2011, 09:36:06 AM
Hi Romero,
what is the spacing from the 2 driver coil pairs to the
pickup coil pairs ?

What is the interleaving there ?
Do you have the 2 driving coil pairs next to each other
or are they like:

1 driver coilpair,
4 pickup coil pairs
1 driver coilpair,
3 pickup coil pairs

?

Do you have an magnet polarity measurement device ?

Can you exactly say, if all the magnets inside the rotor
pointing up, when you have the device standing on your table,
are north or are all magnets inside the rotor pointing up
have south pole ?

It might be interesting to know this.
Maybe if you turn around your device on the
head (180 degrees turn),
will it still selfrun ?

So this could be an easy test to see, if your local
earth magnet field has anything to do with it and the devices direction
to it.

Many thanks.

Regards, Stefan.

Quote from: lanenal on May 07, 2011, 09:36:12 AM
Yeah, this one is ansswered already, see below:

Basically from my understanding, the 20w bulb is too heavy a load for the system...if it were a 5w bulb, you should see no voltage drop at all.

Quote from: hartiberlin on May 07, 2011, 09:36:06 AM
Hi Romero,
what is the spacing from the 2 driver coil pairs to the
pickup coil pairs ?

What is the interleaving there ?
Do you have the 2 driving coil pairs next to each other
or are they like:

1 driver coilpair,
4 pickup coil pairs
1 driver coilpair,
3 pickup coil pairs

?

Do you have an magnet polarity measurement device ?

Can you exactly say, if all the magnets inside the rotor
pointing up, when you have the device standing on your table,
are north or are all magnets inside the rotor pointing up
have south pole ?

It might be interesting to know this.
Maybe if you turn around your device on the
head (180 degrees turn),
will it still selfrun ?

So this could be an easy test to see, if your local
earth magnet field has anything to do with it and the devices direction
to it.

Many thanks.

Regards, Stefan.

Quote from: gotoluc on May 07, 2011, 10:09:28 AM
So Romero has gone from a large voltage drop with battery connected when the bulb is on to a self runner using the same load with no battery connected?

These are amazing improvements!!!

@Romero, can you please redo a continuous sound video with your Muller on a glass (away from the legs) showing it running the load with no battery. Please do a view under the glass and all around as it is running.

Thanks for sharing and your time.

Luc

Quote from: romerouk on May 07, 2011, 10:26:37 AM
what is the spacing from the 2 driver coil pairs to the
pickup coil pairs ? I don't understand this question.
The 2 driver coils are not next to each other, one coil is on one side and the other exactly on the other side.
All magnets on the rotor are all pointing same direction, as you look at the device all magnets are with South up. I have never tried to run it upside down because of the dirving circuits but I will try it having it on one side.
I don't have a  magnet polarity measurement device.

Quote from: romerouk on May 07, 2011, 10:26:37 AM
what is the spacing from the 2 driver coil pairs to the pickup coil pairs ? I don't understand this question.

Quote from: lanenal on May 07, 2011, 10:39:44 AM
If I understood correctly, stefan is asking about the relative position of the driving coils. Namely you have 2 pairs for driving purpose, and 7 pairs for power generation. Those pairs are evenly fixed on the stator plates. If we number the pairs clockwise from 1 through 9, and let the first pair be a driving coil pair, the question is, what is the number for the other driving pair?

Quote from: hartiberlin on May 07, 2011, 10:36:08 AM
Hmm,
now I don´t understand your answer.

You say you have 9 coil pairs.

Which coil pairs are the 2 drivers and which coil pairs
are the pickup coil pairs ?

Quote from: gotoluc on May 07, 2011, 10:09:28 AM
So Romero has gone from a large voltage drop with battery connected when the bulb is on to a self runner using the same load with no battery connected?

These are amazing improvements!!!

@Romero, can you please redo a continuous sound video with your Muller on a glass (away from the legs) showing it running the load with no battery. Please do a view under the glass and all around as it is running.

Thanks for sharing and your time.

Luc

Quote from: neptune on May 07, 2011, 12:18:00 PM
@Arthurs . Please respect that Romerouk is under pressure . Please read through all the thread and that will answer 99% of your questions . There are 8 equally spaced magnets on the rotor .Hope that helps .

Quote from: woopy on May 07, 2011, 12:34:56 PM
Hi Romero

how a lot of question and thank's so much to have this patience.

I am at my shop and doing the rotor. I would like to be very near from your config.

So I have a small problem. If i take some measurement on your set up and my CAD drawing, it seems that the spacing between magnets arround the disk  is not correct if i use 20mm diameter magnet on a 25 cm rotor disk.

On my CAD design or the rotor is 25 cm and in this case the magnet should be 25 mm diameter, or the rotor is 20 cm diameter and the magnet are 20 mm diameter

Can you please remeasure your rotor disk diameter and 20 mm magnet diameter.

( on the pix the black circle are the magnet 20 mm and the red circle are the coil with the 6 mm ferrite core  the rotor is 20 cm diameter. the wood rotor bottom is 25 cm and you see the 20 mm diameter magnet seems very small on this disk)

Many thanks

Good luck for the future ;)

Laurent

Quote from: void109 on May 07, 2011, 12:56:56 PM
I believe I read that he is using two hall sensors.  I also believe I read that we are trying to activate the pickup coils at TDC of the magnet.

Which of those two statements are incorrect?  Or both?  With a 9/8 ratio of magnets to coils, and only two hall sensors to set trigger points, I don't see how it is possible for each of the coils to activate at the same relative position to the nearest approaching magnet.  Looking at the CAD drawing woopy took a photo of illustrates this.

Wouldn't it be the case that each coil would need its own hall sensor?

Thanks Rom!

Quote from: romerouk on May 07, 2011, 10:30:12 AM
Hi,
I don't have a glass that size but I will organise something like having it hanging with a piece of string, maybe that is even better.

Quote from: neptune on May 07, 2011, 01:34:58 PM
A plea to all computer wizz kids . I would not know a cad if it jumped up and bit me . Could someone post a diagram of two circles ,with lines radiating from the centre to the circumference . One circle to have 8 spokes and one 7 spokes . Then one could print these , stick them to discs , and use them as a drilling guide for rotor and stator . Just a thought .

Quote from: e2matrix on May 07, 2011, 01:52:03 PM
Maybe it would help to know the math for the angles between coils and also magnets.  Easy enough to calculate at 45° for 8 equally spaced in a circle and 40° for 9 equally spaced in the circle.  A couple basic drafting tools (even school kids type should work) and you can do the layout.  Just put coils and magnets same exact distance from center on these angles and you've got it.  That way you don't even need to know the distance between them as long as the angles are correct and the distance from absolute center is the same.

Quote from: Bruce_TPU on May 07, 2011, 02:08:15 PM
Hi Romero,
Congratulations!  Very well done, indeed.  Thank you for publicly showing your working replication of the Muller device.

Hi Groundloop,

Your drawing, showed the magnets between the coil ends and the rotor, in repulsion, but Romero, says he is driving them in attraction, yet approved your drawing.  I would just like clarification, and if it is attraction, to readjust the picture perhaps..   ;)  Aside from that, the picture is awesome, and a big help.  Thank you!

At ALL,
The individually stranded wire, in Romero's setup is simply reducing the resistance of the wire, allowing for greater output.  Often, coils are engineered with large diameter wire, for low resistance, but often, this results in lower number of turns, thus less inductance per coil.  This is easily overcome, by using individually insulated wire, for even less resistance, and also a greater number of turns per coil resulting in greater inductance, less resistance and greater output.  Take the resistance of the wire, for said number of feet (length) and divide that by the number of wires you are running in parallel, and this will give you the new resistance of said stranded wire.

Cheers,

Bruce

Quote from: neptune on May 07, 2011, 02:44:03 PM
Further to Bruce`s post above . How to make your own Litz wire for these coils . Get some enamelled wire with a diameter of 0.125 mm . Your local electric motor rewind shop is a good source .This wire is very thin so work carefully . First and hardest part is estimating the length of wire needed for each coil .Let us guess , an average length of one inch per turn . So 300 turns would be 300 inches or 25 feet . If your workshop is less than 25 feet long , work outside . Mount 2 hooks 25 feet apart facing each other , on wall bench clothes posts etc . Attach the loose end of your wire to a hook , walk to the other hook , loop the wire round it and walk back . Walk back and forth 7 times , looping at each hook until you have made 7 trips .Tie off the wire at the hook and cut the wire . Bind the 7 strands together with tape near each hook . Now slip one end of the bundle off a hook andput a screwdriver through the loop where the hook fitted . Use the screwdriver to twist the strands together loosely . Cut off the loop at one end and carefully remove the enamel and solder the wires together . Use this end to start winding your coil , and wind the desired number of turns .You will then probably find your bundle was too long .cut off the excess and measure it .   Subtract its length from 25 feet , and adjust your hooks for the next performance . Finally strip and solder the ends together .Hope this will help someone .

Quote from: gauschor on May 07, 2011, 03:57:02 PM
Hi, I am still not 100% clear on the electric circuit in how the remaining things are connected, in which order and where to. I have now drawn a picture, can someone look at it and correct it if its wrong and clear up the few points where I added a question mark?

Quote from: neptune on May 07, 2011, 03:45:44 PM
@toranarod .Poverty is a great educator ! Pleased to be of service ,but thats what these threads are for .If we all put something in , the net result will be wonderful .Thanks for posting the rotor diagram . Do you plan to one for the stator please .

Quote from: gauschor on May 07, 2011, 03:57:02 PM
Hi, I am still not 100% clear on the electric circuit in how the remaining things are connected, in which order and where to. I have now drawn a picture, can someone look at it and correct it if its wrong and clear up the few points where I added a question mark?

Quote from: toranarod on May 07, 2011, 03:40:15 PM
thanks thats a great idea
I have the wire never accrued to me to wind my own.

Quote from: bourne on May 07, 2011, 04:45:07 PM
@groundloop and our other EE wizzkids

I can't remember if this has been mentioned before

I have been searching around for the Hall effect sensors and have found the A3144uea has been discontinued.

One of the manufacturers suggests the A1120EUA-T as an alternative

http://uk.rs-online.com/web/search/searchBrowseAction.html?method=searchProducts&searchTerm=A1120EUA-T&x=20&y=6 (http://uk.rs-online.com/web/search/searchBrowseAction.html?method=searchProducts&searchTerm=A1120EUA-T&x=20&y=6)

would you agree this is what we need?

Quote from: bourne on May 07, 2011, 04:45:07 PM
@groundloop and our other EE wizzkids

I can't remember if this has been mentioned before

I have been searching around for the Hall effect sensors and have found the A3144uea has been discontinued.

One of the manufacturers suggests the A1120EUA-T as an alternative

http://uk.rs-online.com/web/search/searchBrowseAction.html?method=searchProducts&searchTerm=A1120EUA-T&x=20&y=6 (http://uk.rs-online.com/web/search/searchBrowseAction.html?method=searchProducts&searchTerm=A1120EUA-T&x=20&y=6)

would you agree this is what we need?

Quote from: romerouk on May 03, 2011, 07:08:19 PM
Here is my replication of a Muller Dynamo with few addons.

Muller generator magnets and coils were odd and even numbers. Like 17 magnets and 16 coils (or something like that) Looks like you created your own version.
ROMEROUK GENERATOR

Quote from: gyulasun on May 07, 2011, 05:00:36 PM
Here is the manufacturer recommendation on replacement:
http://www.allegromicro.com/en/Products/Part_Numbers/3141/ 

so it is type A1104 which is available as replacement.

EDIT type A1120 is a more precise (chopper stabilized) type, probably more expensive, with the same voltage and 25mA output current ratings. So not really needed once the A1104 would do. Of course prices are to be compared, I do not know by heart...  :)   ALSO: any such type should work like toranarod suggests above

Gyula

Quote from: romerouk on May 06, 2011, 09:25:11 AM
@neptune
What is your longest looped run to date please?
Well the longest is the one I have recorded yesterday(about 20 min), after that I had no patience to sit and just look at it.I have some other projects in progress but this weekend I will have it running over night.

QuoteI hope we are witnessing the beginning of an energy revolution.
Which  will lead to Being able to grow food anywhere any time of day,Travel as  far as you want as often as you want, we all dream of it, is now the  time when the dream becomes true ?

Quote from: chrisC on May 07, 2011, 06:06:28 PM
Hi RomeroUK

Were you successful in running the device overnight? Last time you said it ran 'looped' for 3.5 hrs. but was trying to run it longer until the neighbors complain? Can you update us please? Thanks.

cheers
chrisC

Quote from: romerouk on May 07, 2011, 06:23:40 PM
I had it running almost 5.5 hours without complaints from the neighbours

Quote from: poynt99 on May 07, 2011, 06:28:44 PM
That's great news Romero. ;)

How much load (presumably a bulb) did you have on it during this time?

.99

Quote from: hartiberlin on May 07, 2011, 06:03:57 PM
Hi All,
I compiled a PDF file with all the important informations and graphics:

http://www.overunity.com/index.php?action=downloads;sa=view;down=469

Regards, Stefan.

Quote from: gauschor on May 07, 2011, 06:49:00 PM
Ah I still got a question about the 2 Hall sensors (I didn't find the exact info the previous pages):

First of all I assume that the 8 small magnets (the ones pointing outwards on the side of the rotor) are in line with the 8 larger magnets. Is this correct?

Then the final question is: at which positions are the 2 Hall sensors placed: are both hall sensors just placed "before" each one of the driver coils? With "before" I mean in rotation direction before the driver coil)

Quote from: romerouk on May 07, 2011, 06:52:30 PM
I had only a 5w bulb as with the 20w bulb the dc converter gets hot after some time.
I tried to add the bulb before the dc convertor but there is more than 12 volts and the bulb will not last.
This DC converter is max 3amp but I am very happy about it plus the price was very low. Nice device and I think that all people should have one, it helps a lot in any other builds where people are trying self looping.I has even load protection and thermal protection too.I have tried for a second a 50w bulb as load and it switched off imediately.

Quote from: romerouk on May 07, 2011, 06:17:13 PM
To ALL:
This generator can be driven by many other circuits or from an external motor connected to the shaft.Don't concentrate too much on the circuit used to drive the coils, that is simple.

Quote from: bolt
As Romero stated the pulse driving of this generator is not important at all. That is only a method to turn the rotor. Its only the construction and detail to the generator CORES and MAGNETS which provides the OU.

Quote from: bolt on May 07, 2011, 08:24:23 PM
Yes first there is an odd number of coils to magnets this helps prevent no load cogging as each field is overlapped. But under load it begins to bog down again UNLESS the cores are Re-gauged.  By adding another magnet to the back side of each coil the coil once pulsed becomes latched in north or south pole state. Lets say the coil is latching South it approaches a South facing magnet and tries to repel against the coil. Normally the greater the current from the last magnet pass the greater the latching as it approaches a new magnet so the lugging increases.  The Re-gauging RESETS the coil by forcing back the flux in the opposite direction but it actually over shoots! This creates a north biased coil attracted fast to a south pole magnet and provides free acceleration energy into the system.

The solid state version of this is called ....wait for it = MAGNACOASTER. :) This is why magnacoaster has 5 neos one end and one the other with a measured tuned GAP. Yes its OU.

More abrupt the process is Bloch wall modulation where the return or re-gauging bias is an over shoot of energy from the back end magnet.

Quote from: romerouk on May 07, 2011, 08:38:05 PM
:) the magnets on top of the coils ideea came from Magnacoasters, I am working on that too but nothing like OU there yet. I am using the computer to generate the pulses.I do believe that Magnacoasters is genuine.
The rotovertor versions I tried about one year ago had about 33w minimum, in my case nothing like 10w or so but I did not oped the bearings to clean them.

Quote from: romerouk on May 07, 2011, 06:52:30 PM
I had only a 5w bulb as with the 20w bulb the dc converter gets hot after some time.
I tried to add the bulb before the dc convertor but there is more than 12 volts and the bulb will not last.
This DC converter is max 3amp but I am very happy about it plus the price was very low. Nice device and I think that all people should have one, it helps a lot in any other builds where people are trying self looping.I has even load protection and thermal protection too.I have tried for a second a 50w bulb as load and it switched off imediately.

Quote from: bourne on May 07, 2011, 04:45:07 PM
@groundloop and our other EE wizzkids

I can't remember if this has been mentioned before

I have been searching around for the Hall effect sensors and have found the A3144uea has been discontinued.

One of the manufacturers suggests the A1120EUA-T as an alternative

http://uk.rs-online.com/web/search/searchBrowseAction.html?method=searchProducts&searchTerm=A1120EUA-T&x=20&y=6 (http://uk.rs-online.com/web/search/searchBrowseAction.html?method=searchProducts&searchTerm=A1120EUA-T&x=20&y=6)

would you agree this is what we need?

Quote from: toranarod on May 07, 2011, 04:03:35 PM
7 X 0.125MM SOLDERABLE STRAND EN.Cu 500g

If the wire comes in 500g rolls anybody know how much we would need to make all the coils in the motor?
any ideas Please?

Quote from: bolt on May 07, 2011, 08:24:23 PM
Yes first there is an odd number of coils to magnets this helps prevent no load cogging as each field is overlapped. But under load it begins to bog down again UNLESS the cores are Re-gauged.  By adding another magnet to the back side of each coil the coil once pulsed becomes latched in north or south pole state. Lets say the coil is latching South it approaches a South facing magnet and tries to repel against the coil. Normally the greater the current from the last magnet pass the greater the latching as it approaches a new magnet so the lugging increases.  The Re-gauging RESETS the coil by forcing back the flux in the opposite direction but it actually over shoots! This creates a north biased coil attracted fast to a south pole magnet and provides free acceleration energy into the system.

The solid state version of this is called ....wait for it = MAGNACOASTER. :) This is why magnacoaster has 5 neos one end and one the other with a measured tuned GAP. Yes its OU.

More abrupt the process is Bloch wall modulation where the return or re-gauging bias is an over shoot of energy from the back end magnet.

Quote from: bolt on May 07, 2011, 08:53:13 PM
Well i made a good guess then (educated one) LOL  Of course solid state is the goal and you will get there very soon. I think everyone has to go through the learning curve of OU machines first then later solid state.  Like you i KNOW magnacoaster is real and you have just proven it beyond any doubt with your generator. It just opens a new can of worms in controlling the HUGE amount of OU power. Plenty of burnt coils and blown fets.

Well when you make your big machine go get that old RV out the shed take off the fan, clean the bearings in petrol and  WD40 and just add one drop of sewing machine oil. It should spin by hand for 40 seconds very easy. Now you got a very efficient motor that can run on 10 watts and use ALL the coils as genheads. A small 250w inverter will run the RV motor easy and just retune the run cap to match the rotor at full rpm and load.

BTW you should get some sleep its 2 am:)

Quote from: baroutologos on May 08, 2011, 02:40:24 AM
If i may speak is BEST everyone to refrain from theories and old unproved concepts and focus on what Romero has ended up with.
First replicate, with all the meaning of the word i.e. not major changes (anyway, every one likes replicas), and then once successfully done, investigate yourself.

snip..

This is the discovered secret IMO thanks to Romero's experimenting skill.

Quote from: baroutologos on May 08, 2011, 02:40:24 AM
If i may speak is BEST everyone to refrain from theories and old unproved concepts and focus on what Romero has ended up with.
First replicate, with all the meaning of the word i.e. not major changes (anyway, every one likes replicas), and then once successfully done, investigate yourself.

Quote from: romerouk on May 07, 2011, 07:04:24 PM
Let's clarify some points regarding the sensors:
not both of them are using the small magnets.I started originally with both using the small magnets to switch then I tried to move one to get max results.
The second one is facing the big magnets from the top.This one from the top is activated after the magnet passed, the other one on the side of the rotor is activated like 1mm after the magnet passed the center coil.
This is difficult to explain, testing yourself will get you there but do the testing separate not both of then at the same time.

Quote from: romerouk on May 07, 2011, 10:59:49 AM
I am thinking to double the number of coils and magnets too. 3 driving coils will be better.

Quote from: romerouk on May 07, 2011, 07:04:24 PM
Let's clarify some points regarding the sensors:
not both of them are using the small magnets.I started originally with both using the small magnets to switch then I tried to move one to get max results.
The second one is facing the big magnets from the top.This one from the top is activated after the magnet passed, the other one on the side of the rotor is activated like 1mm after the magnet passed the center coil.
This is difficult to explain, testing yourself will get you there but do the testing separate not both of then at the same time.

Quote from: Pirate88179 on May 08, 2011, 04:10:51 AM
Wow, just got in from work and had to catch up a lot.  Excellent work here everyone.

I submit that Romero has made enough changes and improvements to the Muller device that it is now essentially a new device.  I mean, a car is still a car but there is a big difference between a Model T and a 2011 Corvette.  (Romero's device being the Corvette)

This is astounding work here and exciting times.

Bill

Quote from: lanenal on May 08, 2011, 05:16:13 AM
Surely this design of RomeroUK is a lot more simpler to build and test...
I think we can also give a component list here. I'll start by:

1. 1 rotor plate and 2 stator plates.

2. 8 + 2 X 9 = 26 neomagnets, 20mm dia, 10mm thick, N38 rating.

3. 2 X 9 = 18 ( coils + ferrite rods + soft iron washers)

4. circuit components...

You are welcome to make corrections or add more details.

Quote from: e2matrix on May 07, 2011, 09:48:40 PM
I was seeing some A3144 Hall sensors on eBay from Chinese sellers.  They usually ship world wide and good prices too.  Not sure on the quality.

Quote from: e2matrix on May 07, 2011, 09:48:54 PM
I believe I read somewhere Romerouk used 2 kg. of that wire so I guess 4 rolls of the 500 gram wire.

Quote from: infringer on May 07, 2011, 09:56:19 PM
You are likely going to hear about it and what will be said in the coming days or hours or weeks who knows they will talk about the following things.

The fact that the table is plastic and has nice big hollow legs.

And the fact that you have a 12v lithium drill with a 1/8" drill bit under your table at 17:18 on this video... Sitting right next to them big hollow legs of that table.

I think yes the best test would be for you to do a suspension test I can see all of the shit slinging trolls coming out of the closet here soon might as well put them to rest as soon as possible imho . Seems it always happens even when people are not conclusively I believe proved wrong something just dies out because of the replication process being a bit more advanced then most have the time money or mental capacity to complete a strong proving series of there own ever since cold fusion it has been this way probably even long before this even Tesla with wardencliff ... He was made a mockery and we first finally now start to acknowledge his achievements in the time of "peak oil" which is another false term imho that I would prefer to believe there is no peak yet I believe with all the shale and other things oil abundance could still keep us rolling for over a century at our current rate of growth but with everything getting greener I estimate it would even last much longer.

Quote from: romerouk on May 08, 2011, 06:30:23 AM
I tried to do a hanging video yesterday but all device started to rotate and going crazy... after that gotoluc said that if don't do it properly then better don't.
I will do it anyway, I migh be able to keep it in the air with one hand and record with the other or... we'll see
That drill has nothing to do ... :) I didn't even think about removing it from there.
I will also try to use another capacitor, smaller, as gotoluc sugested, people might think I have batteries inside ...

Quote from: EMdevices on May 07, 2011, 11:58:51 PM
I'm taking all this information in as fast as I can and I have a few suggestions for RomeroUK.

1)  make sure you document everything, it's very important.
2)  continue to explore why you got the results you did and what are the critical factors, we need to determine the fundamental principle so we can duplicate easily and also scale up the design.


It sounds like the Muller arrangement of having one more coil on the stator than magnets on the rotor, i.e.  8 to 9 ratio, is a primary factor of importance, along with the fact that magnets are biasing the ferrite cores.   The biasing is critical in eliminating the hysteresis losses, and the motor pulsing arrangement is another very low loss mechanism,  so I second what bolt was saying,  don't build some cheap setup, go for perfection and eliminate as many losses as possible.


An interesting observation I made is that the ferrite is biased and the rotor magnets are in opposition.   This means the B-H curve is traversed from high H values to low H values and then back, as a magnet on the rotor approaches a stator coil, passes under it, and then departs away.  I think this cycling of the B-H curve from high-to-low and then back is very significant!  Romero, you might want to experiment and reverse all the polarities of the magnets only on the stators, and see if it still works.

EM

Quote from: Cherryman on May 08, 2011, 06:54:53 AM
RomerUK,

In my humble opinion, i would not risk hanging your device on a string.
Better yet, i would not risk anything at all with it.
Most of us believe your intentions and observations.

Better to focus on a replication first.

Not that I wanna tell you how to handle, i trust your judgment. Keep up the good work!

Quote from: joefr on May 08, 2011, 07:04:35 AM
Hi RomeroUK

Here is the link to online shop where I buy all the parts on the picture:

Sprocket Carrier 30mm
https://www.kart-schuette.de/karts_en/sprocket-carrier-30mm-1.html (https://www.kart-schuette.de/karts_en/sprocket-carrier-30mm-1.html)

They are aluminium and very well made. On the site bellow is the picture with all measures.

Joe

Quote from: romerouk on May 08, 2011, 07:11:33 AM
I am making sure I don't risk brakeing it, I would die...
I know that  if I show all of it then people will have more confidence in replicating it.
I have a friend here on the forum that I shared info for some time and he is saying that it is not possible to have such success with my devices and all others don't. :) I uderstand him and others but my answer is very simple: Put your heart in what you do, in all work you do and believe you can do anything, never give up.
I know it sounds stupid for many but this is my belief. Even if I cook something (soemtimes) I am doing it with great pleasure.
I think that people with bad heart and black soul will never succeed in anything.

Regards,
RomeroUK

Quote from: romerouk on May 08, 2011, 06:51:55 AM
Better material for the core will improve substantially.
People should pay attention for the core material, that is one of the most important keys in this setup togheter with the spacing arangement.

Quote from: i_ron on May 06, 2011, 07:48:28 PM
Well I have started, does that count? lol

Rgds Ron

Quote from: Rosphere on May 08, 2011, 07:38:45 AM
romerouk,

Nice work.  Thank you for sharing.

Stop risking a floor crash, keep it on a table!  Some will simply say that you could have thin wire routed along with your cotton string, (just out of focus of your camera,) powering your device externally.  What have we gained?

I agree with you: get more successful-replications running.

I agree with EMdevices: document the details and try to discover the fundamentals.

We would appreciate some more graphic details, maybe arrows and lines on top of actual photo images, showing these timing adjustment ranges that you wrote of earlier.  Please include some 'if-then' situations from your experience.

Stop and review some of your replies here and elaborate upon those those not yet covered in your original document.  The more detail that you provide in one document, the better chance you have of achieving your goal of sharing the stage.

Thanks again, man!

Quote from: baroutologos on May 08, 2011, 02:40:24 AM
If i may speak is BEST everyone to refrain from theories and old unproved concepts and focus on what Romero has ended up with.
First replicate, with all the meaning of the word i.e. not major changes (anyway, every one likes replicas), and then once successfully done, investigate yourself.

....

@bolt,

regarding RV it maybe work at extremely high electric to mechanic energy conversion in comparison to pulsed motors etc but the effect Romero shows that with load application (i.e. bulb and pulse motor) not affecting even slightly the device is outstanding at least and cannot be seen anywhere! (especially if there is not any considerable cogging torque present)

This is the discovered secret IMO thanks to Romero's experimenting skill and will to share.

Quote from: Microcontroller on May 08, 2011, 08:46:35 AM
Why do you stress so much about the no battery's inside??

Did you ever turn a generator by hand to lite up a 12 volt 20 Watt bulb?
It needs alot of kinetic energy to do that.

Which is why i can tell your device is a fraud.
That rotor is spinning way too slow to burn that lightbulb but it seems i am the only one that sees that.

Maybe that is because I actually used a lot of hand driven generators...whilst the rest of the members never did since they can just plug things in.

Quote from: poynt99 on May 08, 2011, 09:21:45 AM
Not trying to jump ahead too fast, but does anyone see the possibility of a non-rotational version?

Bolt, are you saying the key is that the generator coils experience no or little cemf?

.99

Quote from: romerouk on May 08, 2011, 09:46:02 AM
The generator coils experience cemf depending on the load but at some point the speed goes up now down.
People should see the whole picture, don't look at a single coil, look at the other coils too at the same time.
Looks that we have a member(Microcontroller) that is 100% sure that this is a fraud, ha, ha, well u got me :)

Quote from: neptune on May 08, 2011, 09:46:29 AM
@Romerouk . please when you get a minute , can you give your opinion on the 10mm ferrite rods from old radio .I know several people are thinking of using these .
@everyone . suggestions wanted for a small efficient 12 volt drive motor for initial testing ..I wonder if a motor from an old video player might work .

Quote from: bolt on May 08, 2011, 09:55:37 AM
Romero Please don't waste too much time on these people. There is only so much you can do in a video demonstration. Even if you tried to make everything as clean as possible some will suggest you are using microwaves, tapping the power lines, oh yes do you have a power line over head hint hint,  hidden batteries, even specially edited video!  The same thing has always happened from the TPU, Kapanadze, Sweet VTA, Muller, Moray etc apparently these are ALL fakes according to the hardcore elite debunkers LOL  Same thing last Xmas with looped HHO genset. That has to be fake right? no way can something be looped and run by itself.:)

Quote from: romerouk on May 08, 2011, 09:56:02 AM
I have used them in some other projects and worked good. Best will be mumetal or simmilar but the price is huge.

Quote from: romerouk on May 08, 2011, 09:46:02 AM
The generator coils experience cemf depending on the load but at some point the speed goes up now down.
People should see the whole picture, don't look at a single coil, look at the other coils too at the same time.
Looks that we have a member(Microcontroller) that is 100% sure that this is a fraud, ha, ha, well u got me :)

Quote from: Cherryman on May 08, 2011, 10:43:06 AM
I ordered the magnets.

Next step are the coils.

As I'm an electrical noob i have a few silly questions:

I'm i correct i can use a (in this case 0.125 ) wire , take 7 strings connect the endings and wind those all at the same time 300 times around the coil ?

I could not quite see how the coil is connected to the stationary disc. 

Could someone tell me if it would be A, B, C or D?  Or Else?

Quote from: romerouk on May 08, 2011, 09:29:06 AM
Just uploaded a new video with the generator suspended.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8iNrjKFSLu4

Quote from: hoptoad on May 08, 2011, 08:02:11 AM
It sure does Ron!
I'm looking forward to seeing your build. I've seen previous results of your mechanical skills
so I know you'll do good.

Looking forward to (hopefully) some more positive results and the ensuing lively discussion.

Heres something Romero said back on page 5.

"The distance between the coils and the rotor must be adjusted depending on the magnets used, core... Too close is not neccesary good."

Sound familiar to you Ron ?. Someone I know has mentioned this in detail before, on another site?.
It may have even been me !! LOL.

P.S. - Thinking aloud ... Open Magnetic Sytems. They're full of surprises!  LOL

Cheers all .... KneeDeep

Quote from: bolt on May 08, 2011, 09:08:04 AM
I think you completely missed the point of what i was saying.  First it is not the replication that is important it is understanding the method and using Re-gauging on the back end of the coils to null out the lugging. This is a magnacoaster method and something some of us have discussed for a long time.

The drive of the rotor is not important as the pulse motor is only used to provide rotation. Any method of rotation can be used so long as its very efficient.  Already you will see no two devices will be the same as everyone will use the materials they have available to them. The magnets will be different strengths, the cores wound different, different core materials, the number of coils and magnets are probably going to be different BUT they all have a good chance of working if the re-gauging back end magnet is carefully selected to null the BEMF.

And Indeed Romero has suggested others try bigger coils and rotors to get more power. Alike the Joule Thief no two are the same yet most of them work!

For using 3 phase RV provides cheap method of construction with professional bearing and platform to mount a rotor. The perspex doesn’t come cheap either. A3 sheets of the stuff 12mm thick cost a small fortune!! RV provides an extremely efficient drive motor which can spin a very large rotor down to a few watts.

http://youtu.be/duWxzwLEMxM

Now bolt the genhead stator and rotor direct to the motor shaft and you got your muller without using pulse drive and ALL the coils then become generator coils.

Quote from: ramset on May 08, 2011, 12:00:18 PM
Gents
Regarding The "Nasty" Posts!
Looks Like Stefan Is Keeping The Vibes Positive over here! [deletes the "nasty"]
Just the Way Romero Likes it!

History In the making!!

Chet

Quote from: aircore on May 08, 2011, 12:18:41 PM
Hi Romerouk:

    Because my English is not good, A lot of content can only guess, On the multi-strand wire, This issue is really important to me, please answer:

1) a recommended 0.8mm multistrand,
2) Another way of saying they recommended 7x0.125mm litz wire,

    But: accurate mapping from the actual point of view, 7x0.125mm litz wire of the total cross section diameter of 0.375mm, And 0.8mm diameter cross section a lot of difference.
    I understand wrong? What is the right choice?

PS: multi-strand wire in the end is the option of using multi-strand bare copper wire? or choose to use multiple Enameled wire?

Thanks you helping

Quote from: energia9 on May 08, 2011, 12:28:26 PM
SCREW THE GOVERNMENT!!

Quote from: poynt99 on May 08, 2011, 12:36:29 PM
NP,

For constant power to a given load, post DC-DC works best.

But I agree, for the best efficiency of power transfer to the load, it should be placed pre DC-DC, as long as the load can handle the worst-case power surge possible going into it.

.99

Quote from: Groundloop on May 08, 2011, 01:05:04 PM
You can also build your own DC to DC regulator.
LM338 can handle 5 Ampere if on a heat sink.

GL.

Quote from: nul-points on May 08, 2011, 12:27:55 PM
hi all

please excuse if this is a DFQ**

(i've just looked thro' thread again and can't see this addressed previously, but with *my* eyesight you never know!)

in GL's diag, ok'd by Romero, the load (lamp) is shown as AFTER the DC-DC Converter

surely, it should be BEFORE the converter? (ie across the 47000uF buffer cap)

since the converter is, say, 80% efficient then 20% of all energy which enters it gets dissipated mostly as heat (ie. wasted)

if we put the load on the cap side then none of its energy gets wasted by the converter, am i right?

of course the converter is used to keep the voltage stable for the drive coils, so we have to accept the 20% (say) loss for their energy

but the convertor only NEEDS to stop any EXCESS energy going to the drive coils

so ALL additional excess is available to power any external load(s)

any comments? (or should i just start taking my meds again?)

great teamwork all !
np

(DFQ** = Damn Fool Question)


http://docsfreelunch.blogspot.com (http://docsfreelunch.blogspot.com)

Quote from: Aedini on May 08, 2011, 01:21:08 PM
Hi Romero:
    I really want to know the DC-DC converter which is what?
    -----------------------------------------------------
    I am very worried about hidden inside a battery.
    -----------------------------------------------------
    Very much hope that you can use facts to eliminate my doubts.

    If you have offended, please forgive, because so far no one has successfully copied.

Quote from: bourne on May 08, 2011, 10:12:15 AM
Thanks Romerouk

@everyone

Am I correct in thinking Muller used magnetite powder at one point?

Lots of things to try out at some point :)

Quote from: bourne on May 08, 2011, 10:12:15 AM
Thanks Romerouk

@everyone

Am I correct in thinking Muller used magnetite powder at one point?

Lots of things to try out at some point :)

Quote from: EMdevices on May 08, 2011, 01:55:30 PM
RomeroUK,

thank you for your previous answers and new video. 

One question I have is:  does the device operate with the stator magnets reversed?  Have you tried that in the past?


EM

Quote from: nul-points on May 08, 2011, 12:27:55 PM

the convertor only NEEDS to stop any EXCESS energy going to the drive coils

so ALL additional excess is available to power any external load(s)

Quote from: poynt99 on May 08, 2011, 12:36:29 PM
[...]
But I agree, for the best efficiency of power transfer to the load, it should be placed pre DC-DC, as long as the load can handle the worst-case power surge possible going into it.
[...]

Quote from: k4zep on May 08, 2011, 12:55:21 PM
[...]
but you could put a load across the Cap ahead of the supply (I think you mentioned a 50 watt load at one time)  and keep loading it down till you had it down to about 6-7 volts at 12VDC into the motor from the switcher and it would show how much power is really available!  I suspect more than you think.
[...]

Quote from: romerouk on May 08, 2011, 01:24:59 PM
[...]
before the regulator I have about 15 volts, but I could use 2 10w bulbs in series there.
[...]

Quote from: yssuraxu_697 on May 08, 2011, 03:36:50 PM
Hi, like some others I want to point out importance of the core material.

Attempts to use solid metal cores or even laminations will likely be futile.
With low power system good RF ferrite with low eddy loss should work but
for full sized system getting proper core material is very problematic.
So if people here have magnetite on hands then it would be good time
to try this out:
http://www.energeticforum.com/renewable-energy/7468-how-can-i-make-good-magnetic-sand-cores.html#post131820

To make it more visual there is video:
http://www.overunity.com/index.php?action=downloads;sa=view;down=470

This is my litte test device for trying this and that. Basically
pulse motor. At first I did drive coil average Joe style, on steel
bolt. Minimal possible drive voltage was then 0.5V. After that
I constructed drive coil on oversized RF ferrite core. Minimal
possible drive voltage settled at 0.1V and it got a lot more
efficent overall.

Now what I do in the video is just remove totally unused and
unshorted old drive coil from the system (running on new coil at 0.2V).
Pretty dramatic acceleration of rotor occurs.

So to sum it up... Presence of any conductive material in the
rotor field besides windings severly degrades performance.
Electricity has no reason whatsoever to form in windings if
it has alternative paths... be it core, frame details etc.

BTW romerouk, have you tried it with air coils. Maybe it is not critical
to have cores? I say this because current cores are rather undersized for given magnets/coils
and likely get totally saturated. Do they really play significant role at all... ?
Or maybe it is the role... sort of saturable reactor?

Quote from: poynt99 on May 08, 2011, 12:36:29 PM
NP,

For constant power to a given load, post DC-DC works best.

But I agree, for the best efficiency of power transfer to the load, it should be placed pre DC-DC, as long as the load can handle the worst-case power surge possible going into it.

.99

Quote from: Groundloop on May 08, 2011, 03:49:56 PMI have air core coils in my Muller and it does NOT give out any free energy. I think the smartest thing to do is to replicate romerouk's setup.

Quote from: gyulasun on May 08, 2011, 04:09:25 PM

Hi Romero,

I think you can reduce the input current draw for the Hall switch + the TIP42C by inserting a series resistor between Pin 3 of the Hall and the base of the TIP42.  As it is shown in the schematic
( http://www.overunity.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=3842.0;attach=52576 )
Pin 3 is an open collector and directly connected to the +12V via the base-emitter junction of the transistor, there is no any current limiting for the junction and for the inside Hall switching transistor.

I do realize that your circuit works as it is shown  but I guess at least a 30 - 40mA current draw could be saved per one TIP42C by inserting a 680 Ohm to 1 kOhm resistor between Pin 3 and the base electrode while the switching would take place still safely, for both TIP42s.

What do you think? perhaps you have considered and tried this?

Thanks,  Gyula

Quote from: romerouk on May 08, 2011, 04:17:58 PM
Hi,
most of the questions have answers already, please read all posts... I am tired to just answer same questions hundreds of times.
The coils are 1cm usable, the inside between the ends, in total 1.2cm and diameter 2.2cm
the core ferrite 1.5cm/6mm diameter.
I have tried without cores but less performance, higher speed but low output.

I will not do other videos, this way, everyday I will find someone to suggest something else.
For all replicators.

After some tests today and changed one pair of coils, same type of wire but 1.5cm diameter ferrite core, 1.5cm long.
Still 1cm winding space on the coil on 3.5cm diameter coil.I have doubled the number of turns to 600 for each coil.
This was done just for one pair of coils, recovery not driver coils.
The output is increased  but for more I will need to change them all to balance the system but  I wont do that, is to much unnecessary work, I wanted to check and apply to the new system.
Don't even think of using metal or laminations for the cores.

I had another request to sell it. I HAVE NO INTENTIONS TO SELL IT. - please no more.

Quote from: Groundloop on May 08, 2011, 03:49:56 PM
I have air core coils in my Muller and it does NOT give out any free energy.
I think the smartest thing to do is to replicate romerouk's setup.

GL.

Quote from: romerouk on May 08, 2011, 04:47:57 PM
Special for Groundloop and the others helping with drawings and info 
To get to the point where you will get even a little bit out than in requires a lot of time and work. Check every part of the system, part by part, then when you think is tuned start again.
Let me give u an example:
If u have 10 parts in your system and after jumping from testing  the first then second up to 10, when u finished you start again. It can be that part 3 is not as before after u adjusted any other part after. Once you retried everything and got best of all adjustments then you are nearly there.
Do all this testings without having the rectifiers connected together.Measure every coil separately. Even if you don't get too much out from the coils, don't worry, when all are connected things will go magic.
A DC/DC Converter is a must.
Don't rush, I have spent about a month to get here.
Once u past the point and for 1 you get even 1.1 then things are easy

Success!

Quote from: Groundloop on May 08, 2011, 05:08:57 PM
@omerouk,

Thank you for the tips. I have had my Muller for 8 years. I have tried several 100th of variations
for motor driving and generator outputs. My Muller is made in a CNC machine. All the coils are
factory made. So there is not much I can tune. All I can do is trying to add Ferrite cores to
my coils. There is no way I can get my magnets out of the rotor to try all the same pole out.
The magnets are glued to the rotor with a strong Epoxy. So I'm stuck with the NSNSNSNS configuration.
I have no spare time to build a new Muller now. But I will get time next winter. Then I will build
an Acrylic one and make as a close replica to your Muller as possible.

GL.

Quote from: Pirate88179 on May 08, 2011, 05:14:55 PM
GL:

Depending upon your rotor material, a little heat will remove your magnets easily.  Of course, it will probably be above the Curie temp. for the magnets so you would have to replace them, but at least they would be off of your rotor.  Heat will work no matter what type of epoxy was used.

I hope this helps.

Bill

Quote from: Groundloop on May 08, 2011, 03:49:56 PM
I have air core coils in my Muller and it does NOT give out any free energy.
I think the smartest thing to do is to replicate romerouk's setup.

GL.

Quote from: romerouk on May 08, 2011, 06:14:45 AM
Below is a picture with the scope connected at the AC point before bridge.

Quote from: romerouk on May 08, 2011, 08:43:50 PM
@hartiberlin

Hi, I would do all this measurements tommorow, then I will go back to do some work instead answering unlimited questions, this will never end.
I understand that people needs every detail but they are many and I am only one.

Best regards,
Romero

Quote from: romerouk on May 08, 2011, 08:43:50 PM
...I would do all this measurements tommorow, then I will go back to do some work instead answering unlimited questions, this will never end.
I understand that people needs every detail but they are many and I am only one.

Quote from: hartiberlin on May 08, 2011, 10:10:03 PM
Hi All,
I just compiled Version 1.1 of the PDF file describing the RomeroUK selfrunning device
in detail.

http://www.overunity.com/index.php?action=downloads;sa=downfile&id=471

Enjoy !

Regards, Stefan.

Quote from: romerouk on May 08, 2011, 06:14:45 AM
Below is a picture with the scope connected at the AC point before bridge.

Answer: I run out of neo magnets. I am sure that more magnets will increase the output. I have ordered more togheter with the magnets for the new setup.

Quote from: scratchrobot on May 09, 2011, 12:08:40 AM
@toranarod, how much will they cost you?

Quote from: e2matrix on May 09, 2011, 12:15:54 AM
Several of our guru's have mentioned using Schottky diodes.  I think that's an excellent idea and I can't see how it would effect anything in a bad way (99% sure).  Can anyone recommend a particular number that would work well in this replication?  Most are cheap enough that even using all Schottky's to make FWBR's should not add that much to the cost but what model number might be best here?

Quote from: toranarod on May 09, 2011, 12:21:41 AM
I use them on the bridge in my Adams motor the voltage drop is very low. as a full bridge hard to get.

Quote from: hartiberlin on May 08, 2011, 10:10:03 PM
Hi All,
I just compiled Version 1.1 of the PDF file describing the RomeroUK selfrunning device
in detail.

http://www.overunity.com/index.php?action=downloads;sa=downfile&id=471

Enjoy !

Regards, Stefan.

Quote from: SkyWatcher123 on May 09, 2011, 12:25:17 AM
Hi folks, so does anyone foresee an issue with using those large ferrite beads i posted a pic of at top of page, thanks. Right now I'm preparing the steel bolt versions, though I doubt it will work well, that's why I'm thinking about the ferrite beads, at $3.15 for 9 is a deal.
peace love light
tyson

Quote from: toranarod on May 08, 2011, 11:49:11 PM
I am about to get another rotor manufactured. as you know the cost is in the tooling so I pay for one is expensive.
so i can have more than one made. If any body is interested please say as I will just get them to do a few more. you will get them for the cost of what they cost me. and  postage.

this is for a rotor the dimensions are on the drawing

Quote from: e2matrix on May 09, 2011, 12:15:54 AM
Several of our guru's have mentioned using Schottky diodes.  I think that's an excellent idea and I can't see how it would effect anything in a bad way (99% sure).  Can anyone recommend a particular number that would work well in this replication?  Most are cheap enough that even using all Schottky's to make FWBR's should not add that much to the cost but what model number might be best here?

Quote from: nul-points on May 09, 2011, 01:33:15 AM
the gurus appear to have left the building temporarily  :)

this is the next highest amperage rating i could find in Farnell at a first pass, above Romero's existing level of current draw:

(SB1240: 12A,  40V rev,  0.45V fwd)
http://uk.farnell.com/semikron/sb1240/diode-schottky-12a-40v-axial/dp/1776353

i would have thought that a 6A (30V rev, 0.45V fwd) rating would be sufficient for a system operating at around 50Watt (motor + load), if you can find some in your usual suppliers

hope this helps
np


http://docsfreelunch.blogspot.com (http://docsfreelunch.blogspot.com)

Quote from: nul-points on May 09, 2011, 01:33:15 AM
the gurus appear to have left the building temporarily  :)

this is the next highest amperage rating i could find in Farnell at a first pass, above Romero's existing level of current draw:

(SB1240: 12A,  40V rev,  0.45V fwd)
http://uk.farnell.com/semikron/sb1240/diode-schottky-12a-40v-axial/dp/1776353

i would have thought that a 6A (30V rev, 0.45V fwd) rating would be sufficient for a system operating at around 50Watt (motor + load), if you can find some in your usual suppliers

hope this helps
np


http://docsfreelunch.blogspot.com (http://docsfreelunch.blogspot.com)

Quote from: romerouk on May 08, 2011, 07:46:03 PM
I don't understand why people are finding difficult to understand the type of wire I used.
I posted the link to my source of wires many times before.
Below is the source I bought the wire from, and the reference too:

http://wires.co.uk/acatalog/st_wire.html

7 X 0.125MM SOLDERABLE STRAND EN.Cu = 0.875mm
Ref: ST01250007-500

Quote from: SkyWatcher123 on May 09, 2011, 01:17:20 AMin the meantime i'll try the steel bolt version.

Quote from: e2matrix on May 09, 2011, 03:08:21 AM
Now that I think about the current rating suggested I'm wondering if you knew I was planning these for each coil (using 4 as FWBR) as the current rating seems higher than what I would have imagined.  But I'm mostly guessing and I know you understand this better but my plan for these is not at the output of all coils just for each one.  Knowing that RomeroUK's 1N4007's are only rated 1.0 amp does it sound right to need 12 amp?  Although I'm not sure what his FWBR's current rating was he paralled these on so .... I'm lost in the Amperage jungle.  lol

Quote from: e2matrix on May 09, 2011, 03:08:21 AM
Now that I think about the current rating suggested I'm wondering if you knew I was planning these for each coil (using 4 as FWBR) as the current rating seems higher than what I would have imagined.
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